Models > ZBD6920DSS

ZBD6920DSS General Electric Range

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Diagrams for ZBD6920DSS

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The evaporator fan grommet is used to provide a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket in your freezer. This genuine OEM part is about one inch in diameter and is red in color. I...
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These genuine OEM black bumpers are used to provide cushioning between the main cooktop and the grates on a gas stove or cooktop. This item is sold individually, but you may require four for your stov...
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This genuine OEM part is a top burner spark electrode, also known as a range surface burner igniter. This part is used to create a spark that lights the flame for the surface burner on your gas range....
No Longer Available
The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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If a knob for your burner element has become damaged or broken, this is a certified OEM replacement. The stainless-steel colored knobs are made of plastic, fit onto a D-shaped shaft, and include the i...
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The burner cap is used on your gas range to cover the burner heads. This genuine OEM replacement part is black in color and measures approximately 3 inches in diameter. The purpose of the burner cap i...
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$15.26
This genuine OEM replacement part is a bumper for your refrigerator. The bumper is made of orange rubber and measures less than half an inch in diameter. The bumper is used to prevent the fan motor fr...
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This is a replacement burner cap for your gas range or cooktop. The burner cap is found on the burner head, and prevents debris from getting into the head when it is not in use. The cap is black in co...
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This is a burner cap for your gas range. The cap is black in color and about 3 inches in diameter. The cap acts as a cover for the burner head. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is th...
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This evaporator fan blade is for your refrigerator, and it circulates air so that the temperature of the fridge is regulated. This model has 3 blades, and is a little more than 4 inches in diameter. I...
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This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty sock...
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for ZBD6920DSS

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Noisy
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Light not working
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Will Not Start
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Fridge too warm
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Clicking sound
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Leaking
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge runs too long
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Too warm
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Fixing
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X37285
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
121 of 173 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Paul from Suwanee, GA
Parts Used:
WR60X10209
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Warm freezer and no ice
This story starts with a GE side-by-side refrigerator that has always had wide temperature swings and a temperamental water dispenser. The ice maker was not making ice, and the built in digital thermometer showed it was running warm. I suspected that the heat exchanger was full of dust and so looked there. What I found was that the con denser tank was hot to the touch and the fan wasn’t running. As an experiment, I aimed a fan at the it for a while I saw that the freezer temperature dropped back to normal.
.The fan is marked as 11.2 DC so I checked for voltage at the fan and found some. With three wires and no wiring diagram I wasn’t sure this answered all the questions, but hooking the fan to a 12 volt power supply didn’t get it to spin.
I priced parts at a couple websites before using partselect.com . They also have a good diagram to look at (Sears diagrams are really poor). I ordered the part with 2-day shipping; it arrived on time, was correct and fixed the problem.
95 of 133 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Ray from Bensalem, PA
Parts Used:
WR60X10209
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
fan not running
Removed rear and front grills,brushed and vacuumed area- probably caused the fan motor to fail- unplugged fan, removed fan,motor,and shroud in 1 piece, carefully slipped fan off motor shaft, unscrewed shroud and motor. assembled in reverse order. Frige is in tight area, .I'll now roll it out and clean often
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