JCB730DF3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

After researching the likely cause online, I found that the lights inside the doors are wired in series, and if one led fails, the remaining lights dim.
I located the non working light by holding my hand in front of each light until I found the inoperative one. After receiving the replacement part, gently removed the light from the door frame with the trim removal tool, unplugged the failed light and plugged the new one in. Pressed the light back into place in the frame and all was well.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

Removed three 7mm sheet metal screws from the bottom front panel.
The drain pump is in the front right.
Removed the manual drain screen to drain residual water from the system. A bucket was necessary to collect all the water.
Disconnected the inlet and outlet hose.
Disconnected the electric supply.
Removed two Phillips screws holding the pump to the bottom of the machine.
Slid the pump towards the rear to clear the support pegs and removed it from the front opening.
Installation is the reverse of those steps.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Removed the bad inlet valve and installed the replacement. Very easily done. The replacement part made the repair so simple and saved me a huge amount over calling a repair man. It did not take any special knowledge.

Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

removed 5 screws, unscrew two more screws, remove the houses and disconnect the wires remove the watter valve.

Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?

Pulled off the front. Had to feel around to find how pump was attached. Detached it and popped in new one. Would be better if there was more visibility in area.

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long