J2B918SEK2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

This part is a PC Board. Step 1 - pull the oven away from the wall far enough to permit access to the back. Step 2 - Unplug the oven. Be careful of the gas supply line. Step 3 - Before touching the new part, wear a "grounding strap." Step 4 - Using a "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws that connect the top cover plate that covers the control assembly. Once the screws are removed the top of the cover will need to be rotated a bit to the rear to remove it from the oven. Step 5 - Carefully remove the ribbon wire by gently grasping the locking bar tabs with a thumb and forefinger and pulling back until the ribbon wire slides out. DO NOT use any force here. Gently move the ribbon wire out of the way being careful to make no crimps in it. Step 6 - Using a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws holding the oven control assembly to the oven. Carefully remove the foam insulator connected to the bottom two screws. Step 7 - Locate the new oven control assembly above the old assembly and begin transferring the wires, one at a time. Care here is needed as the connectors are tight. Grasp the connector with your fingers and pull straight back. DO NOT pull the wire. Step 8 - Once all wires are transferred dispose of the old oven control assemble and screw the new assembly back on to the stove. Use a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver. Insure the foam insulator is attached to the bottom two screws in the appropriate holes. Step 9 - Once the oven control panel is secured, insert the ribbon wire carefully and close the locking tab. Step 10 - Install the top cover. Make sure the bottom lip is under the foam insulator and that all wires are clear and free before pushing it tight to the stove. Replace the fastening screws. Step 11 - plug-in the stove and insure all oven functions work correctly. Push the stove back into place.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

Removed element with 1/4 " nut driver, unhooked element,started to install new element and discovered the wires were too short and had to remove cover on the back to replace wires on the new element. The wires on my range were not as long as the ones showed on the video.It was still an easy repair and the delivery time was less than 2 days. excellent service. Thanks

Used the TS guide, because I had no idea what the problem was. That was easy step by step. Thanks. Gave me a list of two parts that could fix the problem. Picked the higher percentage part (97%). Followed the simple install instructions and it was successful. One problem I did encounter was the two wires that it connected to were short. Removed the back center plate to gain access to the wires. I was able to extend them enough to make the connections to the bake element. If not for that the repair would have only taken maybe 10 minute's.

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

I had to remove the back panel on the stove to free up taped wires to get more length.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

Turned off circuit breaker, Then pulled out range, straight out and away from wall and cabinets. Layed braket on flooring and moved stove back in to make certain it aligned with range rear stands. Moved range back out, marked holes in braket, screwed in screws to anchor bracket. Pushed range back into placed against wall. Tried to |"tilt" range by pulling down on door after opened - range was held in place sre

nothing to it.

Open a HUGH box to get a smaller box that was surrounded by air bubble packing. Opened smaller box, removed the range's center rack and replaced it with the griddle.

Would have been easy, but I should have checked the measurements more carefully as it didn't fit. But the service from Part Select has been excellent!

plug in thermistor when needed