XB625RK4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed oven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.

I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?

This burner is on a Monarch wood and electric range. The 8in burner shorted out and fried the switch. I had to remove the cover over the switch's. I marked each lead with paper and stapled the paper to the leads. When the switch came in I just had to reattach the leads.

Disconnected the appliacnce from the power source. Using screwdriver, removed the back panel and disconnected every wire that are connected to the switch. Pulled out the front nob and removed the switch. Then install the new switch by screwing it back in. Place all wires back and back panel. Connect and finish.

Disconnected the power. Removed hex head screws from top and lower rear panel. I think there were 8 all together. Pull the knob of the burner control, removed two screws that held the switch in place. Moved the wires one at a time to the new switch, re-assembled. Burner worked properly. Very easy to find the right part from this web-site, and the instructions from others like this were helpful. Easy fix!

Checked each burner switch by disconnecting the light indicator wire. Located the switch, replaced the switch and the indicator light operated as it should.