XB625RK4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove the old oven latch and replaced it with the new replacement part. It was very easy to remove and replace with just a few nuts removed

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

Super easy repair! There are videos online if you have one type of oven, I had the other type (with the little silver plate right above the latch part). The trick is to remove the handle from the assembly itself before removing or placing it in the oven. 4 screws total and I recommend needle nose pliers to help remove the wires.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on

Easy

Top front sloping sheet metal panel with all controls and plastic end caps has to come off. Need 2 people, one to hold it while other replaces switch. Problem was getting screw holes on bottom ends lined up and cuts from sheet metal edges. Ten minutes to get it apart, 40 to get it back together. New switch works fine.

popped the new one on!

Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.

Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!

took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.