JBP30CB1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Took old racks out, slid new ones in....exact match at a huge savings from what GE wanted per rack.
Found the company through a Google search, have it bookmarked and will be back if I need something from them.

Unplugged unit. Removed racks from oven. Removed screws from bracket holding element in. Carefully pulled element forward until the wire connections were exposed. Removed wires taking care not to let them retract into the oven. Removed element from oven. Placed new element in oven. Connected wires to element. Replaced screws to hold element in. Replaced racks. Plugged in oven. Turned on to see if working.

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

First I had to remove the oven ceiling screws bracing the broiler element. Second I removed the screws holding the connectors at the back of the oven before I could disconnect the two wires ( which were awkward for me to get to because I am 5'2" but was able to reach without removing the oven door).

I reconnected the two connectors and screwed the brace into the back of the oven. Then replaced the screws into the ceiling of the oven to hold the unit in place.

I was very pleased to have been able to do this project on my own and the broiler is working fine.

Pulled the oven out of it's location. Disconnected the power cord from the Electrical Outlet. Removed the Protective back plate (from the rear of the oven) which covers the wiring. Disconnected the two leads that connect the Baking Element. Went to the front of the Oven, opened the oven door, removed the two screws with a socket wrench (you can use a screw driver as well), at this point you can replace the element with the new one and secure with the two screws. I then went back to the rear of the oven and reconnected the two wires back onto the new heating element and replaced the wiring protective back plate. Reconnected the power cord to the electrical outlet and turned on the oven to see if the element heats up. AND IT DID. Moved oven back into it's original location and I was done. This took 16 minutes to do and saved me a nice amount of money. I could have had a service person show up and do this work which would have cost me $189.00 (Parts & Labor) to have done and all I spent , by ordering the part from PARTSELECT.COM, was just under $50.00.

Replacement was extremely easy. The new part fit perfectly and installed very easily without tools. Also, I received the part within a few days

I (1) pulled the oven away from the wall to get the back of it exposed. Then I (2) pulled the plug out to make sure there was no electrical current. Then I (3) opened the oven door and tugged on the broken heating element to see how tightly it was connected in the back of the oven. Next I (4) went to the back again and slid the silver-colored metal cover that protected the exposed electrical wiring for the oven. I (5) observed that there were a number of different colored wires held in place by screws as well as some wires that disappeared into the insulation, so I (6) went back to the front of the oven and pushed the broken heating element backward to determine if its wiring would become visible from the back of the stove. I (7) observed from teh back that it did. From that point, I (8) pulled the heating element's wiring connections through the insulation until it was visible. The I (9) unscrewed the two nuts connecting the heating element to the oven's wiring. Then I (10) went back to the front and pulled the broken heating element out and (11)inserted the new heating element. Then I (12) returned to the back and connected the loose wires to the heating element and (13) pushed the heating element forward into the oven. I (14) went around to the front to ensure the heating element was positioned the same way in the oven as the old one was, then in the back (15) replaced the metal shield over the wiring and isulation, (16) plugged the oven back in and (17) turned the oven baking setting on to a high temperature to test the new element (i.e., that it was connected correctly and actually worked). I (18) observed that the oven began heating up quickly to the proper temperature, and I was greateful the new bake element worked as good the original part. I then (19) turned the oven off and pushed it all the way back to its place against the wall.

The repair job was not effortless (about 15-20 minutes) but was simple enough NOT to require an electrician. The most difficult part was physically sliding the stove out and back into its tight place between our counters.

When we received the part (it would have been nice to get instructions, but we figured it out anyways). Took four screws out of the door. Took some nuts off the door. Spread the door, took out the old (a little tricky) and slid in the new. Replaced the nuts and then the screws and it was done.

First, I got my husband and let him know that the part was in (really easy), then I sat back and watched as he pulled the oven from the wall, unplugged it and lifted the stove top (so far, I haven't broken a sweat)! I then peeped up under the top as he removed a scew from the element and then several screws from the back panel, trace the wire to the needed element, and reconnect the new element (haven't broken a nail yet)! He then secured the element back on its mount, let down the top and plugged the oven back in, checked for accuracy...mission accomplished! This was the easiest repair I've ever done!

Turned off breaker for stove. Pulled stove from wall and turned it to access back. Unplugged cord for better movement of unit. Took off back panel exposing connecting wires and disconnected them all. Unscrewed element and sensor screws using small socket wrench and removed from oven. Replaced three items and rescrewed. Went to rear of stove and reconnected all wiring. Moved stove to plug back in and turned oven on. Everything worked fine so I let the unit cool for 20 min to 1/2 hour. Replaced back panel and pushed stove back in place. Fairly easy repair. DO NOT lean on oven door! Oven will tilt forward with enough pressure.

First we pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged it. Then took off the top back panel, disconnected the color coded wires, unscrewed the board and removed it. Then we unpeeled the "face" from the old board and stuck it on the new one, screwed the new one into place, reconnected all the wires and screwed the panel back on. The oven is working just fine and in time for cooking the Thanksgiving turkey! Ordering the part was a breeze--one of the easiest websites I've ever used. Thank you!

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.

I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.