Models > JBP30CB1CC

JBP30CB1CC General Electric Range

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Diagrams for JBP30CB1CC

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The bake element sits at the bottom of the oven to provide heat for cooking and baking. You may need to replace the element if you notice your oven is not coming up to temperature, has hot spots, or i...
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This burner bowl, also known as a drip bowl, is an authentic OEM part for your electric range or cooktop. This part is black in color and designed to fit under the 8-inch coiled burner elements and is...
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This genuine OEM burner bowl, also known as a drip tray, is black and color and measures 6 inches in diameter. It is designed to be used under the coiled elements on an electric stove or range, in ord...
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The terminal block is the socket for the coiled burner elements of your cooktop or range in order for the burners to heat up. If your element is not heating up or turning on, there may be an issue wit...
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Also known as receptacle.
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If your burner element is not turning on or heating up, it is possible there is an issue with the switch. The surface burner switch, also known as an infinite heat switch, is what turns your burner el...
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If your oven is running hot, not heating evenly, not coming up to temperature, or just not heating up at all, there may be an issue with the temperature sensor. This sensor is usually found in the bac...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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This rear drawer support comes with the installation screw. This part has been redesigned. The new support inserts towards the rear of the drawer as opposed to the side.
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$57.79
Sold individually.
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This broil element is found on the upper part of the oven cavity.
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This switch controls the small burner on a range/stove top.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JBP30CB1CC

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
Dennis from Bondville, VT
Parts Used:
WB44T10011
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
oven element burned itself up
Turned off circuit breaker to range.
Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.
The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.
Removed range draw under the oven an d pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.
Reinstalled new element and metal backing.
Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place.
Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.
Reinstalled drawer and racks.
Turned on circuit breaker.
Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
262 of 285 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Theresa from Sherman, TX
Parts Used:
WB44T10011
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
The baking assembly in the oven burst into flames one day, then broke apart.
After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.
141 of 151 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
Parts Used:
WB2X8228
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black elec trical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
112 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
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