J2B915SEH2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Very easy to install save several dollars

Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.

followed the instruction from your video an it was a snap

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

This part is a PC Board. Step 1 - pull the oven away from the wall far enough to permit access to the back. Step 2 - Unplug the oven. Be careful of the gas supply line. Step 3 - Before touching the new part, wear a "grounding strap." Step 4 - Using a "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws that connect the top cover plate that covers the control assembly. Once the screws are removed the top of the cover will need to be rotated a bit to the rear to remove it from the oven. Step 5 - Carefully remove the ribbon wire by gently grasping the locking bar tabs with a thumb and forefinger and pulling back until the ribbon wire slides out. DO NOT use any force here. Gently move the ribbon wire out of the way being careful to make no crimps in it. Step 6 - Using a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws holding the oven control assembly to the oven. Carefully remove the foam insulator connected to the bottom two screws. Step 7 - Locate the new oven control assembly above the old assembly and begin transferring the wires, one at a time. Care here is needed as the connectors are tight. Grasp the connector with your fingers and pull straight back. DO NOT pull the wire. Step 8 - Once all wires are transferred dispose of the old oven control assemble and screw the new assembly back on to the stove. Use a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver. Insure the foam insulator is attached to the bottom two screws in the appropriate holes. Step 9 - Once the oven control panel is secured, insert the ribbon wire carefully and close the locking tab. Step 10 - Install the top cover. Make sure the bottom lip is under the foam insulator and that all wires are clear and free before pushing it tight to the stove. Replace the fastening screws. Step 11 - plug-in the stove and insure all oven functions work correctly. Push the stove back into place.

My oven is wired into the wall so I had to cut the power off at the fuse box. The hardest part was pulling the stove/oven away from the wall to see if it was a simple plug in or wired in. I lifted bottom drawer out so I could get leverage and lifted the entire unit so I could put the front feet on the soft pads. It slid away from the wall easily. I found a socket that fit the screws on the plate holding the broken element and unscrewed it, saving the screws. A gently tug on the element pulled the attached ends through the hole. The tip of the ends were attached to the wall wiring by a small sliding metal clip. I carefully pulled the ends apart. One was hard to get apart to I had to push it with the tip of a knife. Once the old was off the new was super easy to put back on. Side the tips to the clips, screw the plate in place and push the oven back in place. Flip your fuses and turn on the oven. Yeah!

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

Removed element with 1/4 " nut driver, unhooked element,started to install new element and discovered the wires were too short and had to remove cover on the back to replace wires on the new element. The wires on my range were not as long as the ones showed on the video.It was still an easy repair and the delivery time was less than 2 days. excellent service. Thanks

You first must remove the burners on the cooktop to gain access. They are secured with 2 Torx screws which are accesiable after removing the burner covers. The igniters wires must also be removed which simply are push on connections. The cooktop must be removed by inserting a scredriver on each corner of the cooktop from the front. They simply push in and the entire top lifts off. Remove 4 screws covering an access panel located in the front of the cooktop to gain access to the motor/latch, which is secured by two screws accessiable from opening the oven door just below the latch. Replace motor/latch and reassemble. Carefull with the wiring as the replacment switch has been changes. The wires on the left switch of the old assembly get connected to right switch on the new assembly, and the right side wires on the old get connected to left side on the new. Reassemble and Viola!

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

There were two small screws at the back of the stove (this was the part that intimidated me. At first glance it doesn't look like it should be removed). But you just have to unscrew them, disconnect the wires behind them (this part can be done by hand), and pull the element out. The new element slides right in! Just make sure the power to the stove is disconnected either by breaker or by unplugging it. I'm not sure if it matters, but I made sure to connect the wires to the same side of the element that they were removed from.

Saw the brief video and as stated took less than five minutes to replace. It took longer to clean up the floor under the oven than to replace heating element.

replaced

attached the element,pushed it back in the pocket,put the plate back on, screwed the nut and bolt back on and was done in less than 4 minutes!!