J2B915SEH2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

best to pull stove out away from wall connect from behind stove

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

Used the TS guide, because I had no idea what the problem was. That was easy step by step. Thanks. Gave me a list of two parts that could fix the problem. Picked the higher percentage part (97%). Followed the simple install instructions and it was successful. One problem I did encounter was the two wires that it connected to were short. Removed the back center plate to gain access to the wires. I was able to extend them enough to make the connections to the bake element. If not for that the repair would have only taken maybe 10 minute's.

You first must remove the burners on the cooktop to gain access. They are secured with 2 Torx screws which are accesiable after removing the burner covers. The igniters wires must also be removed which simply are push on connections. The cooktop must be removed by inserting a scredriver on each corner of the cooktop from the front. They simply push in and the entire top lifts off. Remove 4 screws covering an access panel located in the front of the cooktop to gain access to the motor/latch, which is secured by two screws accessiable from opening the oven door just below the latch. Replace motor/latch and reassemble. Carefull with the wiring as the replacment switch has been changes. The wires on the left switch of the old assembly get connected to right switch on the new assembly, and the right side wires on the old get connected to left side on the new. Reassemble and Viola!

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

Removed element with 1/4 " nut driver, unhooked element,started to install new element and discovered the wires were too short and had to remove cover on the back to replace wires on the new element. The wires on my range were not as long as the ones showed on the video.It was still an easy repair and the delivery time was less than 2 days. excellent service. Thanks

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

This part is a PC Board. Step 1 - pull the oven away from the wall far enough to permit access to the back. Step 2 - Unplug the oven. Be careful of the gas supply line. Step 3 - Before touching the new part, wear a "grounding strap." Step 4 - Using a "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws that connect the top cover plate that covers the control assembly. Once the screws are removed the top of the cover will need to be rotated a bit to the rear to remove it from the oven. Step 5 - Carefully remove the ribbon wire by gently grasping the locking bar tabs with a thumb and forefinger and pulling back until the ribbon wire slides out. DO NOT use any force here. Gently move the ribbon wire out of the way being careful to make no crimps in it. Step 6 - Using a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver remove the four screws holding the oven control assembly to the oven. Carefully remove the foam insulator connected to the bottom two screws. Step 7 - Locate the new oven control assembly above the old assembly and begin transferring the wires, one at a time. Care here is needed as the connectors are tight. Grasp the connector with your fingers and pull straight back. DO NOT pull the wire. Step 8 - Once all wires are transferred dispose of the old oven control assemble and screw the new assembly back on to the stove. Use a magnetized "Phillips" screwdriver. Insure the foam insulator is attached to the bottom two screws in the appropriate holes. Step 9 - Once the oven control panel is secured, insert the ribbon wire carefully and close the locking tab. Step 10 - Install the top cover. Make sure the bottom lip is under the foam insulator and that all wires are clear and free before pushing it tight to the stove. Replace the fastening screws. Step 11 - plug-in the stove and insure all oven functions work correctly. Push the stove back into place.