JBV42G0H2 General Electric Range - Instructions

Hi, Very simple fix.Take out 1 screw & clip wire with snips. Put wires from new unit together & screw on wire nuts. Put shrink tubes on & heat with liter till it shrinks to what you want. A $15.00 fix is better than a $500.00 stove. FIRST STEP TURN OFF THE BREAKER & YOU ARE GOOD TO GO!!!!! Ron

Had one burner that was completely out as the old terminal block had a broken contact. The other burner was intermittent and would arc when heating up. There are several slightly different size terminal blocks. I had a hard time re-inserting one of the old burners into the new terminal block but got it to seat. I put a new burner with the new block on the other one and it fit much better. Additional tools used were a wire stripper and a heat gun for the heat shrink. The stove works great now.

I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.

Pulled out the 8 inch surface element and then used a 1/4 inch socket to remove mounting screw for terminal block and pulled out block with attached wires as far as wires would permit. My range top does not lift up so I had to work thru surface opening but there was at least 10 inches of wire to pull out so it was not a problem. Cut existing wires at block, stripped 1/2 inch of insulation using my wire stripper pliers and wrapped wire ends of new terminal block and secured with wire nuts provided. Slipped on shrink insulation provided and applied flame from a hand held butane lighter. The instructional video on the web site was a great help. I may not have done repair without first watchng how easy it is. A cheap wire stripper is a great help. This supplier made it easy to select parts with fast delivery and complete the repair. Great source of appliance parts.

slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.

Simple repair. Easy to do. It was disappointing to receive replacement parts which were not ceramic terminals as depicted and described in words, but plastic and therefore will need to be replaced again soon. In addition the shrink tube was not large enough in diameter to cover the wire nut, both of which were provided with the replacement terminal. Part # PS232646 is not ceramic, but plastic which does not fair well in high heat applications.

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

Pull out oven/range unit. Lift range top all the way up. Remove old terminal block. Make electrical connections using supplied wire nuts & heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink. Replace range top. Install coil burner & burner pan as unit. Done.

Good directions

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.

Removed 3 lower screws holding the upper oven inside door panel to the door frame. There is enough flexibility in the panel to coax it away from the frame at least an inch. Removed the old nut plate from inside the door and replaced it with the new one. Screwed in the retention pin and 2 washers while holding the nut in place. Assembled the 3 lower screws to complete the assembly.

My GE range is 20 years old, and still going strong. All I needed was to replace the 6" surface unit. After making slight adjustments, it was just a matter of placing the new unit. After finding this Co. on the internet, and checking others, I will certainly order from Part Select again!Dorothy Trakshel

really easy, remove old and replace with new...easy, once you have ordered and received the correct part.

I had an appliance guy replace a burner(Calrod unit)on my 47 year-old GE range, but he didn't tell me that the original trim ring wouldn't fit. I decided to look up on PartSelect to see if I could get one to fit the new burner, and I did! Fits perfectly......no tools needed.