JGS905TEKW General Electric Range - Instructions

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

I was pretty upset as the grate wobbled, so I went on line and looked for GE Profile parts. To my amazement, I found the little rubber feet quite easily, and within 2 days they were here at my home. I simply had to stick them in the holes; however, I noted that they did not fit real tight, so I removed them and shot a little glue on them, and they have been in place ever since. Thanks to you guys, I am a happy camper now!!!

Turn gas off. Remove front door by pulling the lock covers back and pulling door up. Remove all cooking racks. Push back and lift enamel cover plate. Remove heat shield. Either use crosstip screwdriver or nutdriver (ratchet driver works as well, all the ovens have a different size nut/screw so check your size) and remove ignitor. Remove small shield and gas burner tube from pan. Remove all nut/screws from pan, lift up and pull towards front (ignitor can not go through pan) exposing electrical connector behind insulation. Disconnect and pull through pan. Replace pan (I had to replace older pan due to rust) and push connector from new ignitor through hole and connect to plug. Push pan in attach new ignitor (easier) to gas tube burner and place burner back through hole. Reattach shield and burner to tube to pan. At this point I tested the new ignitor which worked perfectly. Turn off oven. Place heat shield over burner tube. Replace enamal cover plate. Replace oven racks. Place door and lock holders on the hinges. Easy. BTW I am 70 and it took me just at 25 minutes with set up for tools, door, rack and enamel cover removal, heat shield removal and then the more labor intensive nut/screw removal, old ignitor and gas burner tube removal, pan removal, new ignitor replacement, new pan replacement, gas tube with shield attachment, heat shield attachment, enamel cover, grill racks and door attachment. Perfect parts fit well work well.

Changing out the burner assembly completely fixed the gas smell issue. The burner was deformed and rusted in the area adjacent to the igniter. The oven burns properly now, and no extra gas smell exists.

Replaced gas control valve problem solved, all went well

Performed repair using a video for reference.

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

First I removed two screws holding head in place and carefully lifted assembly up using flat screwdriver. I separated old igniter from feed wire with gentle pull. I reversed assembly after cleaning old gasket residue. torque screws back in place after cleaning with small ss wire brsh in dremel tool. Tighten in steps to firm light touch. I used new gashket and ignitor.

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.

The repair is not complete because the two screws that hold the igniter to the oven Burner Assembly tube were frozen in place, probably from the heat over time: One stripped and the other broke, necessitating the removal and purchase of the oven burner tube and screws.

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer