J365*01 General Electric Range - Instructions

Replacing the part was fairly simple. Do not forget to dis-connect the element from the back.

removed 2 nuts holding the element in the oven. removed 2 screws that secured the wires to the element. installed the new element in reverse.

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

The customer service at PartSelect.com is wonderful. They assisted me to located a part for a 40 year old oven. Took only a few minutes to take the old one out and put the new one in. Process was pretty self explanitory.

turn off breaker in electrical panel....remove stove socket from outlet....remove rear panel from stove....undo wire connectios from broiler element....inside the oven, gently move thermostat wire out of the way....unbolt broiler plate from rear wall....remove broiler hanger and then broiler element....reverse procedure and you're all set.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

The replacement was straightforward, six screws. Instructions were provided with the part along with the necessary screws to fit the new element terminals.
Open the breaker, verify power is off, remove the old burner. Install the new burner and mounting bracket. Restore power and test. In and out in less then thirty minutes.

I shut down the electric to the oven at the circuit breaker. Then i loosened the mounting screws and pulled the element from the back wall of oven. Then i disconnected the two leads to the element with a phillips screwdriver and removed element. Installation was done in reverse order.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Removed 3 screws from cover {center of back side of oven}, removed 2 screws from wires connected to element, then removed 2 screws mounting element
{inside oven}, pulled it & replaced it.

After an exhaustive search of local oven dealers and big box stores, I could not find a broiler element for my aged GE stove. I did find it online at Parts Select for about 1/3 the cost from GE online parts.

Replacement was easy-- just as described in posts for this part. The 'hardest' job was getting the screws started that hold the wires to the element-- small screws and small holes-- but just required some patience. A simple, inexpensive repair that avoided my having to replace the entire stove. Thanks!

less than 15 minutes R2 the part, ops ck'd good. 4ea 1/4" screw/nuts, they didn't fight me...