J304X1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.

the replacement items fit really good. It was a matter of remove and replace,

Just lifted the electric components Remove drip plans and trim rings and replaced with new drip pans and trim. Your company was incredible in there delivery of the parts..One day. You made my husbands very happy.

Removed the plug from wall socket.
Removed door to oven by lifting it straight up while partially open, in locked position.
Remove Baking shelves.
Removed 2 screws @ the back of element where it goes into the ovens back wall with a nut wrench and gently pull the element towards you until wires are exposed.
Using a flat blade screw driver hold on to the end of the element near the end with the screw and support it as you un screw the wire so the end of the element does not bend as you turn the screw.
After both wires are removed, remove the old element.
Install the new Element in reverse.
Very Easy!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. connected the wires to the new element. pushed the element back in place the screwed it back to the back of the stove.

Used socket set to remove bolts holding the elements in place, then used a screw driver to remove the wires from the elements. Replaced with new elements, screwed in the wires and reattached the elements to the wall with the bolts.
It was easy, it was just a small space to work in.

Due to this wall oven being vintage 1972, I decided to replace the broil element along with the bake element that had actually failed. The repair was pretty straight forward as seen on the videos, altough it can be somewhat tight to use screw drivers or nut drivers with long handles. You may find that shorty screw drivers or a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and appropriate socket are easier to work with. There were two things that I was cautious about. The first was to be very gentle with the power wires since I didn't know what condition their insulation was in. I tried not to scrape them on the sheet metal opening as I pulled them gently out through the oven insulation. Secondly, I was very, very careful in moving the oven temperature sensor probe out of the way so I could undo the broil element. Before I started the job, I had learned that this probe isn't a separate piece part, it is part of the entire THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY for the stove and it's not readily available. Furthermore, this assembly costs $250 to $350 !!!! The only negative with this job was that the old broil element has some kind of heat resistant material on the rear of the plate that attaches it to the oven wall. This old material fell apart during disassembly. I kind of pieced it back together during assembly, but I would have liked to have been told I needed this piece (since there wasn't an exploded parts view on the web for me to look at)or a new piece of this material should have been supplied as part of the broil element.

Shut power off. Removed two outer screws, pulled heating element forward and removed two more screws. Ordered part and it arrived in three days. Installed in reverse order of removal. Easy fix. Cost was reasonable.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.

Because of the age of the oven it took a little time to loosen the screws that held the element in. Once the screws were removed it was a matter of pulling the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then it was a matter of repeating the steps in reverse. Very quick and easy

First I shut off the range breaker in the main electrical panel. I slid the oven door off for easy access to the back of the oven. I loosened the two hex head screws holding the element to the oven wall. I pulled the element forward to reveal the two hex head screws holding the wires to the element and removed the old element. I attached the wires to the new element with the hex head screws, fastened the element to the oven wall, slid the oven door back on, and flipped on the breaker. I gathered up my tools and left the apartment. It took me longer to get to the apartment and back than it did to do the repair. PartSelect.com got the part to me within two days of my order, and for six dollars in shipping that's great.. PartSelect.com has been added to my internet bookmark.

This was quite an easy fix once I got the correct part. It was my own fault for ordering what I thought went with my oven. I didn't expect to be able to even find a new heating element because the stove is almost 40 years old. Except for that one part it works just fine. It took me about 20 minutes to do the repair. I unplugged the stove, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the element to the back of the stove, pulled it out far enough to unscrew the 2 screws attached to the wires, screwed the new part to the wires, screwed the whole unit back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. It works great. Moving the stove away from the wall was more difficult than installing the new part. It couldn't have been easier and it was a lot less expensive than buying a new stove. Also, the customer service people I spoke to were very friendly and helpful and there was no problem returning the incorrect part. I would recommend this company to anyone who asks.

lift eye slide in bowl and trim ring, put the eye back down,