JMP260D1 General Electric Range - Instructions

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

every thing went just fine. A simple job at best.

What went better was the prompt service.

Thanks

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

On Thanksgiving Day, we were making a pecan pie. The lower oven started to smoke and flame. We quickly turned off the oven, removed the pie, and noticed that half of the lower burner element had turned into cinders. I copied down the part number and serial number of the oven, went to Google, and found the replacement part that I needed. Once the oven had cooled down, I turned off the circuit braker for the oven and tried to remove the burned out heating element. The good news was that I could remove it with my SAE socket set. I then ordered the part on line, knowing with confidence that I could do the replacement myself.
The part arrived one day after I got the email that the part had shipped. That is great service!
I waited till the next day to do the repair since I needed to have the right tools lined up and I needed to wear clothes that might get dirty when working deep inside the oven. A flashlight and a socket set with a 1/4 inch drive were the main tools I needed to do the electrical connections and the oven connection. I also used a blunt putty knife to clean out some of the goo in the oven.
After the repair, I turned the circuit breaker back on and placed a separate oven thermometer into the oven for the first test. The oven worked just fine at 250, 350, and 450 degree settings. Wife is now happy!

Took the old one out and replaced with the new one. It was just awkward to get at.

New element arrived in a couple of days! We turned off breaker to oven, removed the old one which only involved two screws. Then we had to connect new one and re-attach metal square, only tricky part was getting the metal square positioned correctly but that was really not hard, just made sure insulation was covered and plate went back in same position. If we had called a eepair company it would have taken a week or more and probably been expensive!

I have to admit that I tried to remove the element myself but I did not have the right tool for the last two screws. If I did it would have been very easy. I ordered the part and had someone else put it in so I cheated.

Throughout, I took care to not rest my full weight on oven door, although it's hard to work with arms extended. Shut off power to oven at outside circuit breaker, removed both racks, placed trouble light on open oven door at left to illuminate back of oven. Tilted element up to get at bolts. Used 1/4" socket set to remove two hex bolts holding burned-out element's plate to back of oven, pulled it out 3" to expose wire connectors. Held connectors still with pliers in left hand (to not bend wires) while loosening/removing connector bolts with socket set in right hand. Took effort to loosen. Removed element. Wiped oven floor clean. Positioned new bake element in same place, again held connectors still with pliers (left hand) and tightened wire connector bolts with socket set (right hand), pushed element back to original element's position. New element came with screws, not bolts, so used magnetic Philips screwdriver to get screws lined up (tricky), tighten new element's plate to oven's back wall. Removed trouble light, restored power, set closed oven for "bake" and "350 degrees." Element glowed hot in 1 1/2 minutes, ta-daah!

took the element screws off, a little bit dificult to fine the small wrench socket to disengage. I had to have my husband do it because I have too short arms.
I can't believe how much money we saved., the part was there within two days and installed, for a total of 52.00 including next day Fed ex.
Feel good about the whole expierence.

husband said he would call repairman. I found you and ordered part. By the time my husband got around to calling the repairman, I was finished.
Only trouble was getting my hands to work in the small space. The cover plate was not as big as the former unit so I had to muscle it on. BUT, it was a very easy process and we saved tons of money on a repairman and a new oven/micro. THANKS.

followed instruction that came with the parts. Looks great and was easy to install.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Removed back panel. Removed the defective solenoid on its bracket. Replaced it with the new door latch solenoid. This was relatively easy. Replaced the back panel. Tested self cleaning feature. Everything worked fine. I have preformed this same repair once before.