RA720KC General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Bayani P. from DALY CITY, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Burnt Terminal Block
Unplug the range before opening the back panel and removed the wiring connection and replaced with the new one
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- Customer:
- David from Greenwood, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
electric burner shorted out and fried the switch
Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.
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- Customer:
- Charles from NEKOOSA, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB25T10041
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hot burner light lens broke off.
Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.
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- Customer:
- Stuart from UNION SPRINGS, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Drip bowls had deteriorated after years of use
Removed burners and existing drip bowls and installed new drip bowls and existing burners took approximately 15 minutes
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- Customer:
- Lisa from MERCER ISLAND, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The terminal block was arcing and flickering, the burner did not heat up
First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.
By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.
By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
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- Customer:
- Brian from Landisville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
My son turned on the burner to make something and then there was a pop and stove would not work.
First I removed the burners and pulled the stove out to get the back cover off. Removed the back cover after main power was shut off. Removed old burner terminal blocks and replaced with new ones. Replaced back cover and pushed stove back into place. Turned on main power to stove checked burners and they worked. DO NOT REPLACE OR DO ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON ANY MAJOR APPLIANCE WITH OUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE MAIN POWER SOURCE.
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- Customer:
- James from Wilson, WY
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replace rangetop burner connectors
Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.
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- Customer:
- Doris from Aberdeen, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9719
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Hanging broiler
Quick and easy, thanks!
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- Customer:
- Jon from Readsboro, VT
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
stove top burner not heating
The longest part of the job was finding my misplaced nut driver!!Note:A small socket set will do.Unplug stove from outlet,remove rear cover panel,lift stove top up to access terminal. remove the one screw that holds the terminal and slide off the two wire clips that hold the wires up out of the way.next clip off the old terminal leaving the old wires so you can tape the new wires on just to pull them through the hole.Once you have the new wires pulled up to the heat control unplug old and replace with the new,tighten the screw on the new terminal and don't forget to slide on the wire clips
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- Customer:
- charles from st marys, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
part replacement
pull out, push in
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- Customer:
- Caren from Choctaw, OK
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
rusted drip bowls
I was very excited to get them in the mail but waited to install after a clean up but when I finally opened the box I found I only ordered 1 6 inch drip bowl. lol Now that I know they fit when I reorder I am ordering a who new set for later use.
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- Customer:
- William W. from Seattle, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Surface element switch failed
Top front sloping sheet metal panel with all controls and plastic end caps has to come off. Need 2 people, one to hold it while other replaces switch. Problem was getting screw holes on bottom ends lined up and cuts from sheet metal edges. Ten minutes to get it apart, 40 to get it back together. New switch works fine.
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- Customer:
- Deanna from Buckeye, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Water dumped over in in my overhead microwave, which dripped down on, & shorted out a burner switch.
My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.
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- Customer:
- selvon from MA, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
burner inop
Received complete burner receptacle. Decided to take off stove back to plug in directly to burner control.
Turn on stove on low. No heat. Bad coil element. Checked for power at coil element. Switched another burner. It heated immediaetly. Have to order or find a burner element
Turn on stove on low. No heat. Bad coil element. Checked for power at coil element. Switched another burner. It heated immediaetly. Have to order or find a burner element
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- Customer:
- Vance from williston, ND
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The burner had been replaced and it shorted out ;thus discovered thath the wiring block kit was faulty. The parts ordered were a snap to replace the original .
Shut the power off and unscrewed facial hardware ,unplugged terminal and unscrewed hold down bracket and redid everything that I mentioned above. For a rookie it was a piece of cake.
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