J465A1 General Electric Range - Instructions

unscrew two screws pull the old element out put in new one and screw back in . We had to wire it direct because our oven had quick connect connectors and this part did not. But it was no big deal and didn't take any time to fix.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place againts the oven wall. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. These wires were screwed into the element so it was important to order the correct screw-in type replacement element. I pushed the wires back into place and screwed in the plate that holds the element against the oven wall. It was very quick and easy.

I simply removed the 2 mounting screws, pulled the element out a few inches, disconnected the 2 screws holding the wires to the terminals and reversed the order for assembly.

REMEMBER to turn off the breaker at the panel because the wires are still hot even though the oven control itself is off (trust me!!!).

Excellent service and fast delivery from partselect.com........ I'd gladly deal with them again.

The hardest part of this entire repair was locating the right socket and explaining why/how I burned my fingers (yes I had to touch the element to prove to myself it was that easy to fix and worked). 4 screws, 1 replacement part 5 minutes no cussing. This was the easiest repair I have ever done.

First turned off the circuit that controlled the power to the Stove/Oven.
Then I removed the screws that hold the element in place.
I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected the wires.
I attached the wires for the new element.
I replaced the screws.
I turned on the circuit.

And to reward myself baked a Coffee Cake. Yum!

Removed 2 screws with nutdriver.Pulled element out to expose wiring and disconnect 2 wires also with nutdriver. Reverse process. Unit reaired.

removed the old heating element which had about two screws and two connecting wires and replaced it with the new one. I twas so fast and easy. I thought I was going to need a new Oven!!!!!Thank goodness for your website!!!!!

The repair was pretty easy. I unplugged the stove and took the 2 screws out that secured the element into the back of the stove. I then used a pair of needle nosed pliers to pull the wires off the element that wasn't working and then attached the wires to the new element. I then put the screws back in place securing the element to the stove and it was done. It took me about 5 mintues and the element worked immediately.

remove 2 screws pull out, and had a little trouble with the 2 power lines(breaker turned off), as they were around 60 years old, used a nut driver, and plyers to hold leads, and reversed to install. went well considering the age of the oven. tested, broiler works well,(let it heat up for appx 2-3 min to burn off dirt, etc)

I initially only purchased the heating element since this usually the cause of the broil element not functioning well. It took a little longer to receive because I had to order it over the Holidays. Once it arrived it was very easy to replace. It worked very well after installation but the broil element still did not function. I then purchased the broil element and received it within approximately 4 days. It took just a little more time to replace because there was a brace that was attached to the upper oven that helped to hold it in place. Once the wires were attached with the screws it worked very quickly. It's nice to have my oven back in use again!

The bake element was completely missing from the stove. There were two wires sticking out of the back of the oven, one with a terminal on the end and the other with the insulation still on and no bare wire showing/ The right side mounting screw was there..

The left mounting screw hole on the oven had been drilled out oversized, so I drilled another hole in the mounting plate above the original., after attaching the element with a single screw.

I removed the one screw, removed the bake element and pulled the electrical wire without the terminal end. Next, I put a terminal on the wire and attached the wires to the element. Finally I installed the element with the two screw into the rear of the oven.

Unfortunately the element didn't work, so my next step is to trace the wiring and determine if a switch or thermostat might be faulty. I have checked the continuity of the wires from the bake element to the thermostat.

More in chaper two..

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.