J316*01 General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the screw holding the tilt mechanism to the range top. Removed the clips holding the block together. Disconnected the two power leads on the old burner and replaced with the new burner. Closed the block around the leads. Screwed the tilt mechanism back to the range top and that was it!

Finding the replacement part on partselect.com was easy. The search feature brought me to a diagram of the bake element and offered precise grid measurements to assure me it was the correct part.

Be sure to completely unplug your stove before doing anything. The only tools I used were a small nut driver, a standard pliers and a flashlight (and a cushion for my old knees, ha).

Installation was easy, but you have to be very careful to not bend the little prongs were you attach the element to the stove wires... they bend pretty easily, so hold them tight or hold them in a pliers firmly but without crushing them. Drive the two screws to attach the element to the wires; then, drive the two screws to hold the element face plate against the rear of the oven, and viola, you're done!

Thanks, partselect - website, price, packaging and shipping were perfect! Also, I got several good tips from the feedback of other customers that were very helpful. That is a nice feature of your website and a good customer service.

Before you start, make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped, which can explain element not heating.
In my case, the toaster element was ok, which tells us that the oven is receiveing electric current.
1) Take the grills out so you have free access
2) Remove the door - this model just pull it up to let it free
3) remove the 2 screws securing the element on backwall of the oven and gently pull the element out
4) if you have a multimeter:
a) set it to AC, greater than 300 V
b) use your alligator clips, attach the clips
to the contacts of the element
c) briefly turn the oven on: expect to read between 230 and 260 volts
5) remove the screws securing the old element
6) install the new element;
7) secure the element back to the backwall
8) turn the oven briefly on and feel the heating element: should come warm pretty quic;
- Job done -

When you remove the screws securing the wire to the old element, make sure the wires are not cracked, or interrupted.

Otherwise, a real simple and easy fix.

Specs of this element are what I missed but here they are:
Resitence : 25.5 Ohms
Volts: 230 - 260Volst
Power : 2050 to 2650 Watts
The power depends on the voltage, so make sure you dont have it too low (less than 220 ) or too much (yeah, 260V is nearing upper limits)

Removed trim ring and drip pan, loosened retaining nut and replaced the burner. I was very impressed at the fast service from your company. Thank You

Removed two clips that held the ceramic insulators in place. Removed two screws that held conductors to the burner. Replaced screws onto new burner unit, replaced ceramic insulators. Fastened clip to burner onto the range. Turned burner on and it worked great. Thank you for your quick responce to my order.

Removed the plug from wall socket.
Removed door to oven by lifting it straight up while partially open, in locked position.
Remove Baking shelves.
Removed 2 screws @ the back of element where it goes into the ovens back wall with a nut wrench and gently pull the element towards you until wires are exposed.
Using a flat blade screw driver hold on to the end of the element near the end with the screw and support it as you un screw the wire so the end of the element does not bend as you turn the screw.
After both wires are removed, remove the old element.
Install the new Element in reverse.
Very Easy!

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. connected the wires to the new element. pushed the element back in place the screwed it back to the back of the stove.

Used socket set to remove bolts holding the elements in place, then used a screw driver to remove the wires from the elements. Replaced with new elements, screwed in the wires and reattached the elements to the wall with the bolts.
It was easy, it was just a small space to work in.

Due to this wall oven being vintage 1972, I decided to replace the broil element along with the bake element that had actually failed. The repair was pretty straight forward as seen on the videos, altough it can be somewhat tight to use screw drivers or nut drivers with long handles. You may find that shorty screw drivers or a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and appropriate socket are easier to work with. There were two things that I was cautious about. The first was to be very gentle with the power wires since I didn't know what condition their insulation was in. I tried not to scrape them on the sheet metal opening as I pulled them gently out through the oven insulation. Secondly, I was very, very careful in moving the oven temperature sensor probe out of the way so I could undo the broil element. Before I started the job, I had learned that this probe isn't a separate piece part, it is part of the entire THERMOSTAT ASSEMBLY for the stove and it's not readily available. Furthermore, this assembly costs $250 to $350 !!!! The only negative with this job was that the old broil element has some kind of heat resistant material on the rear of the plate that attaches it to the oven wall. This old material fell apart during disassembly. I kind of pieced it back together during assembly, but I would have liked to have been told I needed this piece (since there wasn't an exploded parts view on the web for me to look at)or a new piece of this material should have been supplied as part of the broil element.

Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the metal correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.

Shut power off. Removed two outer screws, pulled heating element forward and removed two more screws. Ordered part and it arrived in three days. Installed in reverse order of removal. Easy fix. Cost was reasonable.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.