JGSP48WH6WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Other people had problems removing screws for igniter and broke them off. The best way to prevent this is to initially tighten the screw and then loosen. Using this method going back and forth will prevent breaking off the screw. You will have to remove the plate on the back of the oven to access the connector. There wasn't enough slack for me to pull it through.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Replaced worn or missing Grate Foot with new ones. Took less than 5 minutes.

Inserted the grate foot into the spot provided; after consulting the parts manuel to insure I was using the proper procedure.

I do use silicone to help hold the foot but it still won't hold

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

Cut off approx. 1/8" in length for correct fit.

I learned that an F7 code on the GE Profile oven meant an error in the touchpad for the oven. A repair shop quoted $89.95 to just show up, and then unknown labor charges, and, if it was the touchpad, could replace that for >$120 in parts. I ordered the touchpad from Partselect, hoping it was indeed the touchpad that was faulty. It was in stock, shipped the next day, for $73 including shipping. It took about 5 minutes to replace the touchpad (at most), and disassembly/assembly was so easy it is not worth detailing; it is obvious. The replacement fixed the problem, and saved hundreds of dollars...

Removed top grate. Removed burner head . replaced with new burner head. Replaced grate.Very simple replacement. Old burner head was warped with age.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I did find instruction in the Q&A on how to to change the part was for an older oven.

Here are the instructions that matched my oven model "JGSP42SET1SS"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHg-O1-NnXM

I also had issues where the connector for the new part would not come through the hole in the back of the oven. I used a shoestring around the connector so I would have a good grip on it when I disconnected the old igniter.This allowed me to have a good grip to reconnect to the new igniter.

While you have this apart I would also recommend that you remove the burner and blow out any material that may have accumulated over the years,

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

Flip toggles to release the oven door. Pull up on oven door to remove. Put door aside. Lift enamel bottom. Slide strait out. Remove aluminum shielding from around the igniter. Loosen igniter, unplug the igniter. Remove burner cowling. Plug in new igniter. Attach cowling to new igniter. Screw it all back in place. Stuff wiring connected back through the protective hole. Depress close door button and test. It takes about 10-15 seconds to ignite. Reinstall aluminum protector. Re install bottom enamel piece. Carfully slide oven door back on pegs and flip toggles to lock. Have a big glass of water and yell, Honey I fixed the oven!!

Replaced Spark Module and adjusted igniters