FED300ESE Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Really easy to replace handle. However, because the new handle does not have the metal inserts to receive the attaching screws (!appearently a bit cheaper to make!), I am concerned that it will not last as long. I could find no reference to new attaching screws so used the old ones...hope it works!

I ordered the exact replacement element, and after unpacking it, it took about 5 minutes (actually,less; didn't time it), and the new element was installed and working fine.Thank you very much.

they were for my 90 year old mom. she dropped them in by herself, perfect fit....thanks very much

I ordered the element. When it arrived, I simply removed the old one and put in the new one. However, it did not completely solve the problem. The heat is now distributed evenly, but still have to turn the burner to 7.5 to boil water.

It was easy once I got screws that work.Old screws and handle had machine screws that held handle on.Order screws with handle so you can install immediately...

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

I could not find the larger size universal drip bowl to fit the 8" burners on my stove. This product replacement is perfect.

I went to all of the do-it yourself stores and spent a bunch of money on aftermarket drip pans only to find out that none of them fit. I came up on your website and also called customer service. The found the right part and mailed it too me. They fit perfectly. No more burnt and rusty drip pans. I know where to go for parts now.

After two failed attempts to get the 'correct' drip pans for my range from two other supply outlets, Part Select had the proper drip pans for this model. They fit perfectly! Simple installation and threw away those cheap, poorly fitting replacement pans I've put up with for three years! Thanks Part Select for having the correct parts!!

The parts came quickly. I removed old drip pans and snapped the new ones into place. A child could do this. Now my cooktop looks new and I am not ashamed for anyone to see it.

1. Moved stove from against the wall. 2. Unplugged the power supply. 3. Removed the electrical pannel cover. 4. Disconnected the quick connect probe plug. 5. Opened the oven and removed the probe. 6. Installed the new probe. 7. Connected the quick connect plug. 8. Reattached the electrical panel cover. 9. Plugged in the electrical supply. 10. Moved the stove back into its original position. ****Note**** THIS IS THE SECOND TIME I REPLACED THE PROBE. THE FIRST REPLACEMENT LASTED ONLY 5 MONTHS!!!!

First I want to thank Part Select for having the video online or I would not have attempted the repair. Also I saved over $75 on the parts!!!!!! It would have cost me $105 for parts and $125 for service tech to replace the burned off terminal blocks with new ones. Parts cost me $35 with shippiing, I did the repair saving me $195 !!!!!!!!! I replaced the parts as describied in the video and all is well. By the way, I got the parts in less than 24hours after ordering, cheaper than driving 30 miles to pick up overpriced parts !!!!

Moved the stove away from the wall, unhooked the electric cord and the gas pipe. In the oven, undid the two screws holding the probe. Removed two screws and removed the electrical cover panel from the stove back, disconnected the quick connect to the probe and pulled the probe from the oven. Reversding the proceedures, put the new probe into the oven, hooked up the quick connect and replaced the electrical panel cover. From the front, reinstalled the probe with the two screws, reconnected the gas and the power cord and put the stove back into position. It works just fine now!

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

Very easy to remove the old drip bowl and replace with new ones.