FEF364FWC Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- ROBERT from MAINEVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Heating element went out
Simply...2 hex head screws removed. Unplug old element...plug in new element...place 2 screws back into place...test
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- Customer:
- Dave from LOUDONVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven element burnt out.
Remove 2 screws. Pull element out. Slide 2 wires off. Just do in reverse it's done.
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- Customer:
- Richard from COFFEYVILLE, KS
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
broke
took out the old one, screwed in the new one. very easy.
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- Customer:
- Mark from LAUREL, MD
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Bake element burned out
This is an easy repair, as described in several other replies. One important addition to what has already been described. Very important to turn off the breaker or unplug the range. One terminal of the range is connected to a hot wire and the range housing is grounded. You may not manage to electrocute yourself, but you could cause and arc that damages the housing or connector. Turn off the power. Beyond that, simple. Unscrew two 1/4" screws with a nut driver, slide the element out and disconnect the wire connectors. Reverse procedure to install the new element and turn the power back on. Preheat briefly to burn off any odor. Very easy repair.
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- Customer:
- Royce from KEENE, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner not controlable
Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Herbert from MARIETTA, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316490000
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven was over heating temp. of oven keep climbing
removed screws from back cover then pulled elect. plug apart. removed screw pulled out probe installed new probe put cover back on very easy only problem was that it said that 88% of time would fix the problem. will this time it didn't work oven still over heating.
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- Customer:
- Robert from LOUISVILLE, KY
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Element burnt out and cracked
I simply followed the instructions in your video. i shut down the power to the oven via the breaker panel, removed the two quarter inch screws with a nut driver, pulled out the old element exposing the two wire leads,disconnected one lead at a time and duct taped each lead to the oven wall,. Then removed the old element and replaced the new one in reverse order. Voila! It works great. This is the second element I replaced in this oven over the years. This site was prompt on shipping the new element (about 3 days since I ordered on a Sunday).. It was well packed and arrived on time and I even got an e-mail letting me know it arrived! How cool is that?! I've been a customer for a few years now and plan to be a "forever" customer. Thanks for saving the day! You ROCK!
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Palm City, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316490000
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Range displayed error code F10
Unplugged range; removed back cover; removed old oven probe. Installed new probe; replaced cover; connected power and turned on range - that simple. My only issue was probe was shipped in bubble rap and unit was slightly damaged (bent). Once straightened, the probe could be installed. Probe should have been shipped in sturdy cardboard cylinder or box. I called customer service, they were very nice, and noted my feedback on my account in case the unit fails prematurely.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Wantage, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
bake element burned out
Unscrewed screws in back of oven holding element. Slipped old element off of wire. No need to cut wires has the kind of ends (spade ends I think they are called) that just is pushed on to element. Attached new element. slid wires back into wall of wire rescrewed to oven wall. Very easy just be sure wires don't get pulled back into back wall of oven. Don't know what you would do then.
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burners 1 would not do anything burned out 2 when from normal to out of control heat would not keep a constance heat
turned off breaker 3 Phil screws open door and on inside range top I would reconmend a board to hold top up square tip for cross bar and pliers to pull wires off fit perfect works really nice
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- Customer:
- Louis from GAINESVILLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bottom oven element non-functional
Shut off power - throw breaker. Oven access easier with door removed - requires removal of two Phillips head screws. Remove two screws holding element in place using 1/4" socket. Pull element & wires out and pull slide in connectors out (had to hold the wire end with needle nose pliers}. Installed element by reversing the removal procedures. Also good time to clean oven.
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- Customer:
- james from WOOTON, KY
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
bake element burnt out.
removed screws,unplugged terminal leads,installed new one,back in business.
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- Customer:
- Paul from PORT ORANGE, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5304509869
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Stove was dropped and had broken, bent frame and adjuster feet
New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.
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- Customer:
- Charles from RESTON, VA
- Parts Used:
- 389082702
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace the dual-element burner in glasstop range
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
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- Customer:
- German from Houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
I could can not control the burner
was easy open the back side of the range and change the part, the only issue was the wire I used the diagram
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