FGFL89CCB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Step one - Diagnose. Used a clamp-on ammeter around the igniter lead to check if 3.6 amps or greater were present during ignition. Only about 2.5 amps were measured, indicating that the igniter was bad.

Step two - Ordered the part.

Installation - Removed the racks and bottom oven compartment cover plates, exposing the igniter/burner assembly. Removed the bottom drawer, cut the wires of the existing igniter (leaving plenty of wire left for the new one). Removed the igniter/burner assembly through the oven compartment. Removed the old igniter from the burner, installed the new one. Re-seated the igniter/burner assembly, routing the wires appropriately. Stripped the existing leads (cut in previous step), spliced the new leads in, soldered the connection (soldering is optional). Taped up the splices with electrician's tape. Turned on the oven to verify that the new igniter glowed and the burner lit. Turned off the oven and waited for the burner to cool. Replaced the bottom cover plates and rack.

Final step - Baked some bread.

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

Unplug power, remove draw, marked and cut wires, unscrewed and removed old igniter, replaced and screwed new igniter into position, reconnected wires with supplied porcelin wire nuts, replace draw, plug in and tried...working great.

order pcs fit perfect.

Disconnect appliance from electricity source! Removed oven grates and the solid oven floor by removing the two screws and lifting up. Removed the piece of metal covering the oven igniter. Unscrewed oven igniter, snipped the wires close to the old igniter (read some of the better descriptions on how to do this). Reconnected new wires to the existing ones and used the ceramic wire covers that came with the new igniter and pushed the wires back through the opening in the rear of the oven. Screwed the new igniter in place. We actually had to unscrew the little metal box on the back of the oven to get to the wires which was easier to work there with connecting the wires. It was a little difficult reaching into the stove since we didn't remove the oven door.

Checked internet for possible reasons why oven would not heat.

Found Partselect.com website. Searched and found that ignitor was probably the problem.

Put in my oven model number and found ignitor. Ordered ignitor.

When new ignitor came in I simply removed two screws that held old ignitor and disconnected two wire.
Put new ignitor on, replaced screws and wires.

Repair done and oven works great.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

I removed the broiler burner assembly held in by 5 screws across the inside top of the oven, as I removed the assembly the igniter slid out from the back of the oven and was attached to the assembly with a cannon plug, I disconnected the cannon plug and removed the whole assembly out of the oven and replaced the igniter which was attached by two screws and reassembled in the oven. Where I live in remote Alaska calling a repair technician is not an option, either figure it out or have a new appliance barged in.

Pull off the old knob, and slide the new knob into place. Less than 10 seconds for each knob.

removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.

Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.

Our original oven ignitor went bad. The gas supply won't even open, unless the oven senses the proper voltage / resistance across the ignitor, so that gas won't be flowing without ignition.

PartSelect was very good about providing me with the proper part, after I got the part number from their schematics and wiring diagrams, on the website. The first replacement part actually arrived, broken, from shipping, but when I called them, they immediately reprocessed the order, and sent me a new ignitor, to arrive the following day. I was very satisfied with their professionalism, as I've been in the past with them, as well.

On to the actual repair:

I removed the broiler drawer from the drawer slides, reached under the main oven chamber, unscrewed the two screws holding the ignitor in place, and cut / disconnected the two wires supplying the power to it.

I then put the new ignitor in place and screwed it back to the mount, used the wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect / splice the wires, and put the broiler drawer back in place.

Oven fired right up!

Entire process took less than 35 minutes. (Likely would've taken a bit longer, but this is the second replacement for the ignitor, since we've owned this oven, so I already had a good idea how to do it. (The first replacement for this particular part was NOT from PartSelect, so we're hopeful this one lasts a while longer than the previous one.)

Thanks, PartSelect!

Removed grates and range cover, unscrewed all sheet metal screws and removed cover plate. Disconnect electrical connector and then removed old ignitor/orifice ass and replaced it with the new one. Replaced all screws in cover plate and then reattached range cover and grates. Turned on the gas and it lit after a few sparks took place.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!