FEFL64FSC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I simply followed the instructions in your video. i shut down the power to the oven via the breaker panel, removed the two quarter inch screws with a nut driver, pulled out the old element exposing the two wire leads,disconnected one lead at a time and duct taped each lead to the oven wall,. Then removed the old element and replaced the new one in reverse order. Voila! It works great. This is the second element I replaced in this oven over the years. This site was prompt on shipping the new element (about 3 days since I ordered on a Sunday).. It was well packed and arrived on time and I even got an e-mail letting me know it arrived! How cool is that?! I've been a customer for a few years now and plan to be a "forever" customer. Thanks for saving the day! You ROCK!

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

I watched the video of the repair. It was very easy; removed 2 screws; disconnected 2 push-on tabs; removed the element; and then reversed the operation. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker that powers the oven before you start the repair. Turn it back on when finished and test the oven.

I removed the baking racks then unscrewed the default screws for the baking element.I then disconnected the electrical leads from the damaged element. I then removed the old damaged baking element and installed the new baking element, attaching the electrical leads after cheking for weak spots in the element. I then re installed the baking racks and started the oven to burn off any factory oils on the baking element.

It's a simple project. Remove old element and replace it with new one. Access is easy. Only one tool needed. What impressed me was how fast the part got here, like the next day after I ordered it.

It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!

Removed two screws removed and replaced panel.

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

The problem was caused by the owner placing an aluminum catch pan under the bake element. The failure of the element was where it was in contact with the pan. The repair involved removing two screws pulling out the element to access the wires. The connectors were the pull off type so I just disconnected the wires from the old element and placed them on the new element, pushed the element back in place and replaced the two retaining screws. I suggested that the owner not place anything in contact with the bake element. Be sure to up-plug the stove plug before attempting repair.

after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done

Remove the 2 nuts holding the element in place. Pull the element out slightly to expose the wires. each side of the element has a wire. Slide the wires off. Replace new element. attach wires and pu the 2 screws back in the element holders.

Turned off range/oven breaker. Opened the oven door. Removed two 5/16 hex head screws. Pulled bake element forward and removed the two slip on electrical connections from old bake element and put them on the new one. Replaced the two screws, closed the oven door, and proceeded to overhaul the kitchen faucet.

this bake element has two special Hex style screws, securing it in place, but a nut driver worked just as well. remove the baking racks, and then loosen the two hex screws. slowly pull the element out of the back wall and then disconnect the electric leads. reinstall by doing then the opposite action. could not have be simpler.