FEFL64FSC Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Ron from ORLANDO, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5304509493
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven did not heat after replacing element
First unplug range. Remove 6 screws on back of range( 1/4 socket). Remove 4 screws holding Clock/Timer (cross point driver). Peal off plastic front cover from old Clock/Timer and place on new Clock/Timer. Remove electrical connections from old unit and insert on new. Replace all screws and plug range in.
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- Customer:
- Royce from KEENE, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner not controlable
Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Ron from CINCINNATI, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316400601
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven bottom panel rusted away
Removed two screws removed and replaced panel.
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- Customer:
- ROBERT from MAINEVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Heating element went out
Simply...2 hex head screws removed. Unplug old element...plug in new element...place 2 screws back into place...test
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- Customer:
- Jeremiah from Crawfordsville, IA
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The baking element developed hot spots and stoped working.
I removed the baking racks then unscrewed the default screws for the baking element.I then disconnected the electrical leads from the damaged element. I then removed the old damaged baking element and installed the new baking element, attaching the electrical leads after cheking for weak spots in the element. I then re installed the baking racks and started the oven to burn off any factory oils on the baking element.
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- Customer:
- Paul from PORT ORANGE, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5304509869
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Stove was dropped and had broken, bent frame and adjuster feet
New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.
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- Customer:
- Amber from CARLISLE, PA
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element (bottom of oven) burnt through and snapped in two
Unplug the oven, remove oven racks, unscrew 2 screws at the base of oven bake element, pull the terminals off the wire bases, plug terminals back in, put screws back in place, plug in oven and test that it works...
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- Customer:
- Irving from Germantown, MD
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven element broke
It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!
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- Customer:
- Howard from McPherson, KS
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The oven went out, element wouldn't turn off.
It's a simple project. Remove old element and replace it with new one. Access is easy. Only one tool needed. What impressed me was how fast the part got here, like the next day after I ordered it.
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- Customer:
- David from PALATKA, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316419137
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Had a F1 code on the range, could not control the bake temp.
Replace the electronic control board & overlay. Tested, works great!
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- Customer:
- William from BENTON, IL
- Parts Used:
- 316238201
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The range element was not coming on
After settling that it was the Surface Element Switch, ordering and securing the switch, the first step was to disconnect the power to the Oven/Range. Next pull out the Range and remove the back and disconnect the switch from the top of the Range. Using the new switch I removed the wire connectors from the old switch and reconnected them to the new switch in the same spot that they came from. After connections were secure I reattached the switch to the back of the Range and reattached the back of the Range. When everything was back in place the power source was reconnected and that was it.
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- Customer:
- Charles from RESTON, VA
- Parts Used:
- 389082702
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace the dual-element burner in glasstop range
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
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- Customer:
- Phin from HARRISBURG, PA
- Parts Used:
- 316555800
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The part I ordered has 5 connections and the part to be replaced has 7 connections. I had to ask a friend who is expert in electrical wiring to help.
My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.
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- Customer:
- Louis from GAINESVILLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bottom oven element non-functional
Shut off power - throw breaker. Oven access easier with door removed - requires removal of two Phillips head screws. Remove two screws holding element in place using 1/4" socket. Pull element & wires out and pull slide in connectors out (had to hold the wire end with needle nose pliers}. Installed element by reversing the removal procedures. Also good time to clean oven.
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- Customer:
- james from WOOTON, KY
- Parts Used:
- 316075103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
bake element burnt out.
removed screws,unplugged terminal leads,installed new one,back in business.
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