CRE3510LWJ Crosley Range - Instructions

i at first had a hard time finding the model # on this older electric stove. i did a chat with a rep from partselect.com and they sent me a web site that showed me where to look for it. that helped a lot. found it and searched on partselect.com . they had just what was needed. the purchase was easy and shipping was fast. i was worried it was going to be time consuming finding what i needed, not true once i found their web site. also, installation was easy.

Took screws out back of oven to get to connectors . Pulled old conectors off Installed new element took about 5 min. Very easy job. Also good time to clean oven .

Pulled out heating elements. Removed old drip bowls. Inserted new drip bowls and re-installed heating elements.

I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.

LOOKED FOR MODEL# OF STOVE.. ENTERED MODEL # IN PARTS.COM SEARCH.
MATCHED COIL AND DRIP PANS
ITEM NUMBERS AND SIZE.
PLACED ORDER.
ARRIVED FOLLOWING WEEK WELL PACKED.
PULLED OUT OLD COILS/DRIP PANS.
PLACE *NEW* DRIP PANS IN FIRST. THEN PUSH IN *NEW* COILS
**NO PAID INVOICE WAS RECEIVED**
Wed4/24/2024

Make sure whichever surface element you are to replace is OFF.Carefully remove surface element by pulling it out of socket and remove drip bowl. Cleaned area around range top and place new or old drip bowl in place. Line up drip bowl cutouts and place on range top and simply push in/plug (2 prongs)in new surface element and place on drip bowl. It's that easy! To install 2 new surface elements and drip bowls took less than 5 minutes.

pulled oven out, unplugged, unscrewed element attachment to the back of the oven (from the inside). element did not work. we tested the upper element and that did not work either. the burst of sparks, heat and flame from the shorting of the original element caused damage to the computer board. we called a local repair man to change the computer board, and then the unit worked, with our new element that we replaced!

I first unplugged the stove (which was the hardest part), I then set a bright light so I could see near the back of the oven. I then started the task of removing the old element by using a quarter inch nut driver, not to difficult at all. Once I removed the bracket I pulled it out far enough so I could disconnect the wires that were connected to the element. I had a bit of a hard time with one but after a little wiggling I got it loose. I was then able to remove the old element from the oven. I began the replacement of the new one, EASY ! I placed it in the oven, attached the electrical connection to the new element (made sure they snap in tight) and then replaced the bracket that held the element /coil to the back of the oven using the nut driver. All finished in about 15-20 minutes. I am not a strong woman , but a determined one. This fixed the problem and I am now baking like I have a new stove. The surface element is nothing to change , just unplug the old one and plug in the new one (simple). I use my front burner so much that it had began to smoke from so much food dropping and cleaning it over the years. MY main issue was the Bake Element and I really like my range and thought I would try this before buying a new range and I did it myself ! If I can do this anyone can believe me I am NO repair person, but this was very easy to do.

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).