ARG7302CC-P1143391NCC Amana Range - Instructions

Remove the racks
remove one nut that holds the heat deflector
3 screws that hold the igniter
remove the drawer
remove 2 screws holding a heat shield in place.
unplug old igniter and reinstall

Took the pan out of the bottom of the oven. Took the screws out of the assembly for the iron, disconnect the power wires under the stove and pull out the old iron. Reverse the proceedure but be careful with the new iron, it is very fragile. Connect the wires put the screws back and you are done. Make sure before you start the job that you unplug the appliance !!!!

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

I used your instructions

After a standard trouble shoot, and finding the control PCB has the correct line voltage and the unit failure has more than one function failure with-in the unit operation, I replaced the Control PCB.
Removal and install took about 10 min, and the unit works fine, all automation is working properly.
Lance

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

First I had to take the drawer completely out of the stove to reach the igniter. I then removed the screws that held the igniter in place and removed it. I had to slightly modify the replacement part by squeezing it together to make it fit into the same space. I put the replacement igniter in place and screwed it down; put the drawer back in the stove and turned on the over to see if it would light. Bingo, job done!

Simple install - 6 -7 screws one nut. Once replaced oven worked good as new. Part shipped from PartSelect actually better than one installed by repairman 4 years ago - fit like an original part.

Thanks PartSelect.com

looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .

of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.

Disconect power source; Remove oven racks, remove storage drawer under oven; remove floor of oven, remove flame deflector, remove three screws holding igniter cage and unplug faulty igniter. Reverse all steps for reassembly.

Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each
sex ready before repair.

The first one came damaged and customer service credited the first one and got another on the way the same day. They were awesome to deal with. I removed the oven racks, the burner cover, the storage drawr, and the door. That took about 5 minutes. I removed 3 screws that held the ignitor in place. I removed the 2 wire nuts from the wires in the drawr space. I slid the ingitor cover off the old ignitor and onto the new one. Slid the new ignitor into place and fed the wires below and put on the 2 wire nuts, then installed the 3 screws and tested the operation. I put the oven back together and put the tools away. Total time about 20 minutes.

Replaced glow bar/ igniter.

Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each- WATCH YOU DONT STRIP HEADS) and disconnecting electrode wires ( DONT HAVE TO- IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO SIDE TOP UNIT OVER), unscrewed the old module, removed each of the 6 wires,one at a time and connected wires to the new module. Plug in stove to test before you screwed it into place, reinstalled the top unit , put the stove top in place,. Done!

shut off gas at tank, pulled stove out from counter area to gain acess to back, removed oven door removed removed screws holding igniter unit in place, i then removed the stove rear panel to get at the wiring for ignitor,remoded old part returned to front and installed new part, checked voltage then re-connected new wires, turded gas back on and tested oven, oven came on less than a minute, put rear panel on stove put door back on and put stove back into counter area, stove works like new.