ARG7302CC-P1143391NCC Amana Range - Instructions

removed two screws from each burner, removed ignitor wires from burners, pulled range top removed old module and inserted new reattaching wires for four burners, switch and power to new module. reset top, attached wires to burners and reinserted screws

Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

We lived with the problem by using a long-reach butane torch lighter for three years after an appliance repairman told us the problem would be very costly to repair. Finally, we found the likely suspect when we happened onto PartSelect's website- the spark ignition module. The cost was just over $81 plus shipping. We ordered on Wednesday, it arrived on Friday by FedEx, and I installed it on Saturday morning. All the parts were included, the instructions were clear and complete, and, best of all, our range now works as it should. We couldn't be happier. Thanks, PartSelect.

Removed burners and top cover to access ignition module.
Remove and replace module and reassemble stove.

The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out the best way to get access to the part. Basically just had to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven then remove the shield that was directing the heat that comes off of the burner. Once I had access to that, I could see the ignitor. To get access to the plug in section, I had to take out the bottom drawer for pots and pans, then remove the piece above that to get access to the place that the ignitor plugs into. Unfortunately the wires were too short, but so were the ones that were on the current ignitor so I used the extension from the existing ignitor and cut off the plug of the new one to attach the extension. Once that was done, just reinstalled the ignitor and we reversed the process. The new one works incredibly well. Instead of waiting several minutes for the oven to start heating up, it heats up instantly. What a relief...much cheaper than buying a brand new stove. This one works great now!! Thank you parts select!!

It was Tuesday before thanksgiving, panic as there was a big bird looking for a hot stove,
unplug stove from its electrical supply
turn off gas, not necessary but sometimes it's good to be safe.
inside oven remove bottom splash cover "pull towards you and lift out, then remove flame pan, one nut in the center, remove and lift out flame pan.
The oven ignitor was to the left of the burner, with 3 philips screws one attached to buner and the other two to the back of the stove, remove all three.
The ignitor is now loose,
remove bottom drawer and behind is a plate attched to the back of the stove with two screw, the screws are facing you as you look in where the drawer was, remove screws and plate to access the plug attatching the ignitor to its power supply .
go back to the oven and remove ignitor.
install new, feed plug through back, and put it all back together.
"ignitor very delicate, handle with care"
I am also not the biggest of guys and it can be awkward getting in the drawer space as you need both hands to plug it back in, so tilting the stove back, keeping safety in your thoughts at all times, would be a must for most people.

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

After a standard trouble shoot, and finding the control PCB has the correct line voltage and the unit failure has more than one function failure with-in the unit operation, I replaced the Control PCB.
Removal and install took about 10 min, and the unit works fine, all automation is working properly.
Lance

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.

My repairman told me it was probably the ignitor (even though the old one sitll glowed), but after weeks of waiting for his back-ordered part, I decided to try it myself - found it on PartSelect and had it 3 days later. Turned off the power to the oven. Slid out the 2 racks, and the cover below the racks. Unscrewed 1 nut and removed the V shaped metal plate that distributes the heat. Under that removed 3 screws that hold the ignitor clip in place and got the igniter out of the clip. I couldn't get to the plug on the other end of the ignitor until I took out the oven drawer and removed 2 screws holding a metal cover in place below the oven. Reversed the whole process being careful with the end of the new ignitor (I read it was fragile). The oven now heats up in 5 minutes and maintains temperature again!