ART6121E-P1143812NE Amana Range - Instructions

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

A Home Depot employee advised me on how to enter all my oven information found on the front of my oven on parts.com. I submitted parts information as stated, also very easy. My parts arrived 3 days later. I used a screwdriver & pliers, it took less than 15 minutes. Very simple and the entire process from order to installation went like clockwork. I would definitely order in the future. Thank you.

The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!

Removed the rocker switch using a regular screw driver to lift the edge. Unplugged the wires from old switch. Hooked wires to new switch. Clipped switch back into place.

Very easy fix. This is done through the oven door. Don't pull it out or do anything exotic. Turn the breaker off. Don't skip this Since you're dealing with 220v here. Shine a bright light into the back of the oven to identify the element attachment screws. Use a number 2 Phillips to remove the 2 screws holding the element in place. Pull the element straight out. This may require a bit of manipulation wiggling back an forth. Don't yank to hard. There was probably 6" of free wire. Next free the wires attached via spade terminals from the old element. Putt the new element in place and reattach the wires. Carefully push wires back thru the holes and secure with the screws. Reset the breaker and turn it on. Totally simple. My oven was 18 years old and the screws came right out. I expected difficulty but none encountered.

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

The front burner the large one was burnt out, I cook alot so I need it, I happen to see a appliance repair man next door. I describe problem and he said well figure about 250 - 300 hundred dollars. 80 For the aprt the rest labor and house call. Well I looked at the booklet and figured out what I had to do ,needless to say I owent to your website and you had the exact part I needed and saved me alot of money. I sugest to d. I. Yers try it and if it doesn't work then call the repairman. Thank you parts select. Glenn voight

Pulled stove out, unplugged it and took 4 screws out to get access to control board. Marked and removed all electrical wires and took 4 more screws out and took of oven knob.Replaced the control board and put everything back together.

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

took out screws on door side. Took out screws that held handle. Inserted glass and put handle back in and then put screws on side back in. There could have been better instructions with glass

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

Turned power off! Removed two mounting screws, disconected two slip on wire terminals from heating element. Removed Element from oven. Took about 10 minutes.
Part came in two days. Re installed heating elemet by pushing on the two slip on wire terminals and re installing the two mountint screws. Took about 10 more minutes.
We have been retired for 17 years. Wish all my "Honeydew jobs were this easy!