ARGS7650SS (P1130766NSS) Amana Range - Instructions

The repair actually started online trying to figure out the problem. The parts list and picture provided were a big help. I actually got lucky when I ordered the part. It was a little difficult to get to but once I got the old one out, it was easy and done quick. Saving at least $100 on a repair man was awesome. I had to find the part in the stove first. Then had to find the wiring harness to disconnect. After taking off the back panel and the oven burner plate, the wire harness was exposed. I disconnected, taped on the new wires, remounted the new igniter and put it all back together. Pretty quick and pretty easy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in plance. I then pulled the element out about 3 in ches and disconnected the two wires

Identifing what part to replace was the most challenging task. So, what I did to trouble shoot what was broken and identify the specific compent was the following. I was not sure that the igniter was broken becuase it illuminated rather bright but the oven would not turn on. The broiler on the other hand worked fine so I removed the igniter from the broiler and placed it in place (the igneiter is a different size) of the oven igniter and guess what the burner cut on...So I ordered the oven igniter and everything worked fine.

The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!

Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.

remove oven flare pan in bottom of stove, about 25 screws, lift out and remove igniter. tip stove back and remove splash pan from underneath, 2 screws, unplug ignitor and reinstall using reverse procedure. igniter is very fragile so be extremely careful with it. reuse old hardware to hold in place,reassemble and good to go.

remove cover bottom of oven slides out, remove three screws holding ignighter, problem i had was finding how to get to where the wire connects. there is a cover all the way in the back held by two screws this is found after removeing storage drawer on bottom.

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

All I would like to say is that I am very satisfied with the service I received from PartSelect.

I definitely would order from them again. By doing the work myself, I believe I saved $80 in labor costs.

Thank you

this was the second one replaced in 5years,they don't make things like they used to

1. Disconnect oven electric supply.
2. Remove oven door (2 screws).
3. Remove inside-oven bottom plate (slide forward, lift).
4. Remove inside-oven burner cover (1 nut).
5. Disconnect igniter enclosure (3 screws).
6. Remove under-oven drawer (slides out).
7. Remove panel at back of oven in under-oven compartment to access igniter electrical connection (2 screws).
8. Disconnect old igniter.
9. Extract old igniter from igniter enclosure. (Don't use much force; just slightly expand the metal flanges of the enclosure.)
10. Dispose of old (bad) igniter.
11. Insert new igniter into igniter enclosure.
12. Place igniter enclosure in oven compartment and slide electrical connector through to back/lower compartment.
13. Connect new igniter in under-oven compartment.
14. Replace panel at back of oven in under-oven compartment (2 screws).
15. Replace igniter enclosure (3 screws).
16. Replace inside-oven burner cover (1 nut).
17. Replace inside-oven lower plate.
18. Replace oven door (1 screws).
19. Reconnect electric supply.

It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.

Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.

TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.

Baking ignitor glows but gas valve not opening. Replacing the bake ignitor solves the problem.

Here is how to do:
1) open the oven door, unload the racks, bottom plate, and flame deflector. unscrew three screws (phillips screw driver needed) to loosen the bake ignitor (along with the metal rack).
2) take out the bottom drawer. you should see two screw all the way at the back. unscrew them to take off a metal cover. you should see the connector. unplug to take off the defective ignitor.
3) plug in the ignitor and put everything back in reverse order.

It took me a while to figure out how to access the connector at the bottom back of the stove. The next time it should take less than 15 minutes.