ARG7301WW (P1143333NWW) Amana Range - Instructions

Removed 3 screws, lifted the top control panel. Adapted new plastic end panel and replaced new end cap an refastened with original screws.

Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out the best way to get access to the part. Basically just had to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven then remove the shield that was directing the heat that comes off of the burner. Once I had access to that, I could see the ignitor. To get access to the plug in section, I had to take out the bottom drawer for pots and pans, then remove the piece above that to get access to the place that the ignitor plugs into. Unfortunately the wires were too short, but so were the ones that were on the current ignitor so I used the extension from the existing ignitor and cut off the plug of the new one to attach the extension. Once that was done, just reinstalled the ignitor and we reversed the process. The new one works incredibly well. Instead of waiting several minutes for the oven to start heating up, it heats up instantly. What a relief...much cheaper than buying a brand new stove. This one works great now!! Thank you parts select!!

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

Remove the racks
remove one nut that holds the heat deflector
3 screws that hold the igniter
remove the drawer
remove 2 screws holding a heat shield in place.
unplug old igniter and reinstall

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

I used your instructions

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .

of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.

WEB research indicated that even though ignitor would glow, that it was likely faulty.
Turned off power at circuit breaker
Remove shelves and bottom plate from inside oven.
Unscrew deflector plate
Remove drawer under stove
Remove ignitor and unplug from connector
replace ignitor, plug in, reassemble stove.
Needed flashlight to see under stove.

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.