ARG7301WW (P1143333NWW) Amana Range - Instructions

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

Repair can be done through the oven after removing the dip pan on top of the oven burner. The drip pan slids out - no tools needed. Remove 1 screw that holds the element close to the burner and 2 screws that hold the element cover to the stove. Remove bottom drawer and remove wire nuts from element wires. Reverse the process to install new element. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the element as it can be easily broken. I cut and stripped the wires coming from the stove valve as they were not in good shape after removing the wire nut.

Removed the rocker switch using a regular screw driver to lift the edge. Unplugged the wires from old switch. Hooked wires to new switch. Clipped switch back into place.

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

i read other stories and found after checking rotating heat switch with ohm meter found the igniter was the problem, pulled up on door and it came off, found bottom of oven pulled up and out, removed wing nut from deflector and two bolts and one wiring connector, just reversed removal to install new igniter and all complete, took about 20 minutes,

I took out the oven racks. There are 2 cross head screws and 1 screw with a hex head holding the igniter. Pulling out the igniter carefully and the wire nuts also came out. Replaced the wires using the existing wirenuts and slid the igniter into place. Replaced the 3 screws and DONE. Wish the igniters were a little cheaper as this is the third one to go weak. The new one draws about 3.2 amps while the old one only drew 2.85Amps, not enough to open the gas valve. Oven works Fine now. Thanks parts select for the rapid delivery.

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

I removed all 4 burners 2 screws holding each,replaced the ignition module,wire for wire,reassembled after cleaning the stovetop.I,m my wife's hero.

Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal may not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.