AER5515QAW Amana Range - Instructions

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.

I had a lot of trouble unlocking the door hindge you must pull the door out to change the hinge they are on the hinge and slide foward then pull the door up and out lay the door flat on a table cover the table with a towel so you don't scrach either one. Unscrew 6 screws on the door cover. 3 on top 3 on bottom take the cover off the hinges are exposed there 3 screws on the hinge 1 on the front and 2 on the bottom replace hinges install face insert door and lock the hinge it's all done. I wish I had these directions

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio

I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account

First I released the lock on the oven door hinge so that I could take the door off by lifting it up and out. Then it was just a matter of removing screws, replacing the hinges, and putting it back together. I did have to guess a little as I started removing screws as I wasn't sure exactly what to remove, but it became pretty self evident as I looked it over. Not as bad as I had expected.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

just replacing the new one into place manually!

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

I wasn't sure if it was the heating element or the temperature probe not allowing the oven to go above 200 degrees so I ordered both from Selectparts. After receiving my replacement parts (in record time thank you) the oven element had a hidden slit on the underside near the connection. During its removal the element disintegrated at that point.

Since Maytag is very user friendly to maintain, it was a matter of removing the retaining nuts securing the element to the back of the oven, and resecuring after replacing with the new element. I did have to take the back panel off the oven to reattach the wiring to the element. This was necessary because while I was removing and replacing the element, the insulation was pulled through the access holes. I also replaced the temperature probe because I had already ordered it. This was easier to replace however and I did not encounter the isulation problem as I had when removing/replacing the element. I recommended your company to my friends and would definately order parts from you should I need to repair another appliance in the future. Thank you again.

My wife heard a loud surge when preheating the oven one day. When I restored power, the oven wouldn't heat and half of the oven display would not light. Broiler OK. Range top OK. The oven coil was electrically open after having melted through itself during the surge. I ordered a oven coil from PartSelect, based on model #. Installation was simple and only involved several easy to remove screws and a couple electrical terminal lugs. I replaced the coil but the oven would not heat beyond 100°F. I ordered a new oven display from PartSelect. PartSelect described what display series is required for a particular serial number. The first 2 #'s of the serial # are the display series required for the oven. My serial's first 2 numbers were 1 and 7, but PartSelect offered only a 10 or 12 series. I ordered a 12 series display and the part was identical. When I removed the faulty display, there were clearly burnt regions of the circuit card. Removal and installation of the display involved a nutdriver, philips screwdriver and circuit card plugs.
I am not sure what caused the failure, the display or the element, but, in either case, I believe the cause is eliminated. The total repair costs were around $225 in parts. At the moment of failure, the oven was approximately 5 years old.