ARG7800CC (P1143388NCC) Amana Range - Instructions

I removed all 4 burners 2 screws holding each,replaced the ignition module,wire for wire,reassembled after cleaning the stovetop.I,m my wife's hero.

First I removed the two screw on the lower inside of the door that hold the door to the hinges. Then I opened the oven door at about a 15 degree angle, and carefully lifted the door out of the hinge brackets. Next I had to remove the side panels on the door . After getting those side pieces off, I realized that I had to go through all layers of the door to get to the inner glass, so I decided that the best way to keep track of all those screws, was to remove each screw with the Phillips head screw driver, and immediately scotch tape that screw right next to the hole it came from. That was the best idea I had, because there are many screws in that door! Removing the old glass, and replacing it with the new glass was the easiest part of the project, just be sure not to let pieces of the insulation get between the glass and the metal frame. Then I reversed my steps to put everything back together. It probably took a bit longer than someone else because I first taped each screw on the panels, and then had to remove the tape, but I just did not want to find a handful of screws after the door was back on, or worse, somehow lose one or two. I think the hardest part of this project was getting the door back on the hinges, because the door is heavy, and you have to line up the hinges with holes in door, and slide the door in evenly. Once the door is back on, re-insert the two screws, and your oven door is as good as new (and as clean as new).

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

remove grate - flip upside down - be sure holes are clean and dry - using toothpick, swab some RTV sealant into the holes and a bit on the pads ... insert pads till they seat - be sure to hold in place till all air is evacuated - wipe excess RTV with paper towel...DONE

I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

Replacing the igniter itself was a simple matter a few screws holding its housing and then plugging the new one into the connector. Difficulty came trying to figure out how to access the igniter. Disassembling the floor of the oven was a dead end involving many screws. Pulling the unit out from the wall was a big job and another failure. The problem was solved with the removal of the drawer. Underneath, in the rear was a sheet metal plate held by 2 screws. Behind that hung the igniter connection. Voila! Job done.

Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).

The repairman that had come had stated that this part is no longer made, but I was able to locate one through PartSelect and was able to replace it with minimal effort.

I removed the three screws that held down the stove glass top surface and had a person hold the stove top up while I removed the two screws which held the autolatch assembly in place. I then swapped the leads from the failed assembly to the new one and replaced the screws which were removed. New assembly tested out fine and oven was able to self-clean again.

I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a way to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.

PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

Wow, ordered the part here and it arrived in 18 hours!! Job was fairly straight forward but the screw holding it in place was corroded and stuck. Several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and some spray lube and lots of patience and I finally rocked the screw lose.