ARG7800CC (P1143388NCC) Amana Range - Instructions

No tools were needed; the old burner bowls were taken out and replaced with the new burner bowls. I would like to say the service was great from PartSelect. com. I was so happy I was able to find replacement bowls for my older drop-in range that I ordered a second set to keep for future use. PartSelect.com sent the replacement bowls quickly, and the order was processed very efficiently. Thank you!

Bought new igniter based on advice from other stories here. Didn't test the impedance. The igniter glowed, but the oven wouldn't start.

1. Removed single nut on flame pan & remove pan.
2. Removed Pan drawer and disconnected plug to igniter.
3. Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place.

Note: the screws were corroded & one stripped in removal - you may want to purchase the metal housing for the igniter assuming it comes with new screws.

4. Put everthing back in opposite order.

I just put the grate pads in the bottom of the grate. The repair was a snap.

Get to the ignitor:
Open oven, clean out the crude, and remove the bottom pan to get to the gas parts.
Remove the nut to get the flame sheild off.
Remove screws that hold the ignitor.
I stripped one and had to pry it off with a strait slot screw driver while turning it with a phillips.

Unplugging the ignitor:
Pull out the drawer. Removed the 2 panels under the stove to access the ignitor plug.
Replace the ignitor and reverse the procedure.

I did remove about 20 screws and the main pan at the bottom of the inside of the oven, but it didn't help me do anything, so don't make the mistake that i made with that.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

Original bumper pads NOT glued into the burner grates. Hence they began to disappear during routine use and cleaning. Very simple repair with a little glue this time around. But fairly expensive for a very small part set

Unplug oven cord from wall receptical,
Remove bottom drawer from oven,
Remove sheet metal plate from rear of oven to gain access to the ignighter connection,
Disconnect old ignighter connection,
Removed the pan on the bottom of the inside of the oven,
Removed the hex nut on the top of baffle plate
Remove baffle plate,
Remove (2) screws holding ignighter in place,
Replace the ignighter and all other commponnents in reverse order

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.

was so each, we removed the door and the racks. and the bottom drawer out. All we had to do was remove the ignitor that was held in wtih screws we could read the wires from the bottom of the oven and then put the new one in and attached the wires from the bottom. We had read reviews of others that did the same repair and were confident that we could do it because they described it and said it was so easy. Thanks everyone.

This is the second time I have had to call a repair person to GE the old screws off. It isn't the fault of the part. Better original screws would have helped. It was very frustrating an expensive. I would say check the screws before you order the part.

After reading previous posts regarding this type of problem, I determined the very high likelyhood that the over ignitor needed to be replaced. Accessing the underneath of the oven compartment, I removed the metal shield covering the ignitor wires in order to unplug the ignitor. (Be sure to disconnect power cord first)
From inside of the oven compartment remove the flame spreader plate ( 1-screw) which gives access to the ignitor. Remove the three screws holding the ignitor bracket and pull the wire and plug through. That's it !!
Installation of the new ignitor is the reverse of the above proceedure.
Oven now functions normally again.
A very simple repair.

Been looking for grate pads for 10 years and finally found you site and part # WPL 814323.
Wasn't sure that they would fit but couldn't even find new grates so decide to try them --Fit perfect.
Kitchen aide stove top gas with round grates. Used the drill to clean out the holes with broken pads still embedded.With clean holes the new pads just screwed in like the originals. Thank you very much

Removed the door and old hinges and reinstalled the new hinges and added some screws to better support the door ( it was bending a little at the middle and the door would not shut all the way. Now it works fine.

cleaned out pad area with an awl. then the pads just slide in.