ARG7300LL (P1143317NLL) Amana Range - Instructions

My husband took it apart then showed me how to put it back together. So I placed it in the metal holder and attatched all the screws.

Shut off electric power. Removed bottom drawer.
Removed metal covers over burner in oven.
Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place. Disconnected wire plug under oven and pulled thru hole where igniter had been. Removed metal shield from defective igniter. Used care to place it on new igniter. Reinstalled everything.
My wife was observing and made me scrub under stove since I had the drawer removed.
I found the other repair stories very helpful in diaignosing my problem and ordering the right part. I ordered on Monday and received Wednesday afternoon normal delivery. Very good service.

I found the ignitor was wired in series with the gas valve and wasn't letting enough voltage through to the gas valve to open it. I just unscrewed the ignitor and pulled it out.

Took cover off inside of oven to expose igniter - 1 nut! - igniter would not glow --3 screws to remove - pulled out storage drawer - un screwed oven shields - (2) - 6 screws - unplugged plastic igniter plug - an replaced! - simple - thank you and made wife buy me dinner for the probably $60 service call! --- thanks to those that posted before me to make this possible!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in plance. I then pulled the element out about 3 in ches and disconnected the two wires

1.) Trun Off Power
2.) Remove the Storage Drawer and the two (2) screws holding on the (Ignitor Plug) access cover-plate located in the back of the storage drawer access. (see page 15 if same model)
3.) Dissconnect the Ignitor Plug
4.) From the oven opening remove the three screws holding the Ignitor Holder.
5.) Remove the Ignitor and Holder from the oven by gently guiding the wires through the access hole
6.) Pull the Ignitor from the holder
7.) All Ignitors are extremelt fragile; install the new Ignitor into the Holder and make certain it is installed tight, mine was not. (Slight bending with my thumbs on the 1/4" flanges might hold it tighter if it is lose.)
8.)Reverse the process.
Note: One person here said they removed "ALL" the screws, maybe it was a different model, I only had to remove a total of "5" screws, two at the access cover plate and three at the Ignitor holder.
First time took me 20 minutes, if I needed to do it today, maybe 10.
Please also note that I didn't troubleshoot the Ignitor, as I didn't have a wrap-around amp meter, but the typical problem here would be the Ignitor, not the Gas Valve. Good Luck, pt

Removed the bottom drawer then removed the door - 2 screws. It would be hard to reach in oven with door still attached and it is simple to remove and put back on. Removed the racks and pan on bottom, which just lifts out. Removed 3 screws that hold bracket that contains igniter. The igniter plugs in and to access the plug you must remove a cover underneath the range. Once the drawer is out you have to crawl back in there to access the plug. I sent in my 14 year old for that. Make sure range is unplugged. Insert igniter in bracket and feed wire back down to plug in and reattach. Vacuumed oven out with a shop vac, etc. and it is a 30 min project.

remove cover bottom of oven slides out, remove three screws holding ignighter, problem i had was finding how to get to where the wire connects. there is a cover all the way in the back held by two screws this is found after removeing storage drawer on bottom.

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.

TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.

Baking ignitor glows but gas valve not opening. Replacing the bake ignitor solves the problem.

Here is how to do:
1) open the oven door, unload the racks, bottom plate, and flame deflector. unscrew three screws (phillips screw driver needed) to loosen the bake ignitor (along with the metal rack).
2) take out the bottom drawer. you should see two screw all the way at the back. unscrew them to take off a metal cover. you should see the connector. unplug to take off the defective ignitor.
3) plug in the ignitor and put everything back in reverse order.

It took me a while to figure out how to access the connector at the bottom back of the stove. The next time it should take less than 15 minutes.

I listened to see if the stove was igniting. It was not so we went with the igniter. It arrived in three days. I thin watched a u-tube repair. It was very helpful but looked as if a few steps were unnecessary. After reading the responses decided what steps could be eliminated and carefully replaced the part. It worked the first time. Besides handling the ceramic part very carefully the hardest part was remembering what screws went where! Extremely glad I took this on as a first time stove repair.

All I would like to say is that I am very satisfied with the service I received from PartSelect.

I definitely would order from them again. By doing the work myself, I believe I saved $80 in labor costs.

Thank you

The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!

Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.