ARG7300LL (P1143317NLL) Amana Range - Instructions

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

Identifing what part to replace was the most challenging task. So, what I did to trouble shoot what was broken and identify the specific compent was the following. I was not sure that the igniter was broken becuase it illuminated rather bright but the oven would not turn on. The broiler on the other hand worked fine so I removed the igniter from the broiler and placed it in place (the igneiter is a different size) of the oven igniter and guess what the burner cut on...So I ordered the oven igniter and everything worked fine.

this was the second one replaced in 5years,they don't make things like they used to

Removed covers. Unplugged and unscrewed oven igniter mounting screws. Pulled out failed igniter and slid in new igniter. Installed igniter in reverse order.

TIP: Many igniters will test correctly with meters. This is due to they will fail under a load (when in use) in the oven. But when testing with the meter they will test ok because they are not being put under the stress of use in the oven.

The oven door had a stripped thread so I took a knife and held up on washer and unscrewed it. I unplugged the oven. Then slide door off. Then removed pan in oven, then used socket wrench to take off burner sheild (reflector). Then You take out bottom drawer, in the back of opening there is a cover over the connections 2 screws. I unpluged the igniter. Now back in oven the igniter has a cage with 3 screws.. the screw was rusted and frozen. Needed to use WD40 on the screw and let set 10 mins. Now I could remove that screw and other 2 screws. With the cage off I was able to go to bottom where the drawer was and reach in and pull igniter completely out. Becareful not to break the anode it is fragle. ( the black piece) Then reverse and put the new one in. I actually swaped some of the rusty screws that gave me trouble with other screws in the oven that were the same, in case I have to do this again some time in the future. These previous comments from people were greatfully helpful!!!! Thank you!!!

I listened to see if the stove was igniting. It was not so we went with the igniter. It arrived in three days. I thin watched a u-tube repair. It was very helpful but looked as if a few steps were unnecessary. After reading the responses decided what steps could be eliminated and carefully replaced the part. It worked the first time. Besides handling the ceramic part very carefully the hardest part was remembering what screws went where! Extremely glad I took this on as a first time stove repair.

Replaced the igniter. With the new igniter, the gas came on when the oven was turned on and lit with no problem.

Thanks to this website I was able to quickly identify the needed part. A few days later I had it. To install the new part I had to open up the bottom inside of the oven to access the igniter assembly and remove the drawer to get to the connecting plug underneath. Four screws needed to be removed, unplugged the old part and plugged in the new part. Replaced the four screws to hold the igniter in place. Replaced the drawer and fired it up. Worked great!

Took cover off inside of oven to expose igniter - 1 nut! - igniter would not glow --3 screws to remove - pulled out storage drawer - un screwed oven shields - (2) - 6 screws - unplugged plastic igniter plug - an replaced! - simple - thank you and made wife buy me dinner for the probably $60 service call! --- thanks to those that posted before me to make this possible!

Turn off power to unit. Remove one nut inside bottom of oven to expose glow bar and igniter. Take 3 screws off of ignitor cover and remove it.

Pull out pan storage drawer to expose igniter plug connector. Unplug connector. Remove igniter.

Plug in new igniter and reverse the above instructions to reassemble.

This was a much easier repair than I thought it would be. I read online that, given the problems my oven was having, it was almost certainly the igniter that was the problem. It was - with the new igniter it works perfectly!

My husband took it apart then showed me how to put it back together. So I placed it in the metal holder and attatched all the screws.

I found the ignitor was wired in series with the gas valve and wasn't letting enough voltage through to the gas valve to open it. I just unscrewed the ignitor and pulled it out.

you need to remove the shield then the tray under the burner and burner tube.then you can get to the plug. Just remember when putint it back you need to put the burner tube in first then the tray then you can screw the element back in place. replace all the screws. works great.

I assumed it was the igniter. The trick is to remove the bottom storage drawer for access to where the igniter is connected. You then need to run the wire up into the oven and mount next to the gas.

Removed the bottom drawer then removed the door - 2 screws. It would be hard to reach in oven with door still attached and it is simple to remove and put back on. Removed the racks and pan on bottom, which just lifts out. Removed 3 screws that hold bracket that contains igniter. The igniter plugs in and to access the plug you must remove a cover underneath the range. Once the drawer is out you have to crawl back in there to access the plug. I sent in my 14 year old for that. Make sure range is unplugged. Insert igniter in bracket and feed wire back down to plug in and reattach. Vacuumed oven out with a shop vac, etc. and it is a 30 min project.