ARG7200W (P1143316N W) Amana Range - Instructions

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

Wow, ordered the part here and it arrived in 18 hours!! Job was fairly straight forward but the screw holding it in place was corroded and stuck. Several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and some spray lube and lots of patience and I finally rocked the screw lose.

Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls the broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.

My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.

I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.

No problem removing the burners. Removing the old initors was a different story. The tiny screws that hold the ignitor in place were baked in and could not be removed with a screw driver. I drilled them and tried to use an easy out to no avail. The screws are very short so I had to use care not to drill thru the burner. Both screw heads did snap off. I resorted to a hi temp epoxy to secure the ignitor flanges to the burner and now the all burners ignite as designed.

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.

The earlier reviews said very easy and 15 minutes for beginners. They were right on, except I could not get the old screw out no matter what I tried. I eventually had to drill it out and put in a self tapping new screw. This was a first for me. Then it took 15 minutes or less and works fine again. Hopefully next time someone will tell me how to get that old screw out faster.

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You

Part Select was a great site for diagnosing the problem and providing the schematics of the range.
The part arrived quickly. All we had to do is pull off the old knob and replace it with new knob by pushing it on the rod that connects and controls the thermostat.

Remove the racks
remove one nut that holds the heat deflector
3 screws that hold the igniter
remove the drawer
remove 2 screws holding a heat shield in place.
unplug old igniter and reinstall

I used your instructions

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

The directions offered by others here were spot-on. I had never done any repairs on any ovens before, and this took about twenty minutes for me.

Slide out the oven racks. Slide out the pan at the bottom of the oven. Use a wrench to remove the nut in the center of the heat diverter. Unscrew three screws holding the igniter housing to the back and gas pipe. Pull the old igniter forward just a little. Remove the igniter housing from the old igniter and CAREFULLY put it on the new igniter; do not touch or break the new igniter.

Remove the drawer. Unscrew the two screws holding the shield up near the back of the oven (it's not as far or hard as it first sounds). Back inside the oven, thread wiring for the new igniter into the hole in the back. Down under, unplug the old igniter (green plug) and plug in the new one. Pull the old igniter completely out of the oven.

Replace the shield underneath. Push the remaining new igniter wiring into the hole as you replace the igniter housing with the new igniter back in place. Replace the three screws. Turn the oven on briefly to test ignition before putting the rest back together.

If all is well, replace the heat diverter and the nut holding it in place. Replace the bottom pan, oven racks, and drawer.