KSM50P-2 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

checked online for the part name, called and ordered the spring latch. It came in a couple days and works fine. Many thanks.

Obviously the problem was in the gear box of the mixer. I disassembled the gear box by removing the four large screws holding the base then the four screws at the rear and center of the mixer. Then I removed the thin metal ring covering the five screws around the front of the housing by gently prying up with a small screwdriver. The five screws beneth the ring have to be removed with a small blade screwdriver turning them a round at a time in sequence until they are free. Gently pry the two housings apart with a screwdriver and lift our the lower half with the plantary gears. I found the drive gear was stripped. I went to PartSelect on the web, eaisly found the exploded view of the mixer's gear box and ordered the gear I needed. The gear is part of an assembly attached to the mixer housing with three screws. Work around the lubricant in the housing. Within four days I received the new gear, installed it by reversing the above procedures and the mixer is working again. The total cost was $34.85. Not a bad investment considering the mixer cost over $400 and would have been trashed for want of one part.

Followed step-by-step video instructions for dis-assembly/reassembly found at ereplacementparts.com. All went well except when driving out the pin that holds the worm gear in the tower. The video wasn't exactly clear enough about what position the pin should be in when driving it out and I inadvertently drove the pin out so that it was trapped inside the tower assembly. Result? I had to bend the pin to get it out, causing an extra expenditure and wait time to order a new pin. So, lesson learned: be sure the pin is horizontal to the tower and not perpendicular to when driving the pin out. Also, I found that having the mixer apart was a good time to replace the grease in the housing. I don't think it would be required to replace the grease at this time but I was worried that pieces of the old worm gear could remain in the grease and possible get jammed in the gears after repairs were completed. Be sure to get a "food grade" grease not grease from your local auto parts store! The table knife was the best tool to use to remove the grease and to smear the grease all over the internal gears when replacing it.

I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.

Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.

I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.

Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.

The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.

Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!

I called my fiancée.

Two flat head screws removed, swapped out the latch, and replaced.
The entire repair took about two minutes.
Price was acceptable given the worth of the mixer.

repair is farly simple just take your time, First attempted i didnt replace the speed covernor looked ok but had problems getting slow end to work properly decided to go ahead and install since i purchased it also and walia took care of the cogging problem. Good Luck

removed the screws holding the mixer housing and then removed the worn worm gear by removing the roll pin holding it on the shaft. Replaced the worm gear and inserted the pin that hole it in place. Replaced some of the gear grease and reassembled mixer. Went very easily. No problems at all.

unscrewed the old one........screwed in the new one, no chance for electrocution or power tools..........darn!

A part required to operate the bowl lift had failed, "broken in half". I removed the base, by removing 4 large philips head screws, then removed the pedestal which housed the broken part by removing 4 more large philips head screws. I used a hammer and punch to drive out the split pin, a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin and replaced the broken part.

Pulled off end cover. Used the how-to video's to show me how to remove the (3) components (watch out when it comes to removing the spring). Removed all (3) components (one issue was the black cardboard seal, which because of its age broke. Hindsight tells me that I should have purchased a replacement seal along with the (3) new parts.
Fixed the broken part of the seal with scotch tape). Installed all new parts with the help of the video's and put the cover back on. Even with the new parts, the mixer would not run. Come to find out, after I took it to an appliance repair person, that someone had pulled both brushes and put them back in improperly. I could not find a how-to video that showed me how to de-install/re-install the brushes properly. I assume that was because new brushes were no longer available for purchase. At any rate, when the brushes were put in properly, everything worked. The repair person also adjusted the (2) screws on the speed control plate so that when you change the speeds via the lever, it all works properly. I didn't find a how-to video covering those adjustments either.

remove the back cover part # 36, remove the top cover part # 1 (by removing the chrome ring parate # 28, the mobile disk part # 25 and six screws part # 24). This done, remove the system parat # 38 to release the Pevel Pinion Center Gear part # 15 and remove the damaged part and put the new part. The install the removed parts in reverse order as they withdrew.

Place Pin in hole where it was missing then gently tap pin into place
Run a test and all is good ??
make sure to use a drift pin set
Tom

Just twisted it in to place. Parts Select was awesome! Thank you!

This is the tightening screw that holds the attachments into the motor unit of the mixer. Found your web site and reordered 2 replacement pieces (in case one breaks!). Very EZ and user friendly. Thank you!