KSM111 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.

Punched out the roll pin to remove eccentric from spindle, undid 5 screws (after removing trim ring), and removed 4 screws to undo the motor housing. Make sure to keep the one screw with a lock washer in the BACK of the housing. Undid the screw on top to remove the back of the motor housing to take out the strain relief grommet, prior to removing the motor housing. Scraped the excess grease into a tub to re-use. Pulled out the shaft, and lifted out the old (stripped) gear and plopped the new one in. Make sure to mark match points for parts, and put the pins back in in the right order. You have to put the 5 screws back in before sliding the trim ring on, and putting the roll pin back. make sure all gears mesh and test before snugging the motor housing screws. Be sure to orient the strain relief grommet securely, and be careful of the filter plates in the back of the housing (they're brittle). putting the grease back is like frosting a cake. Save a little for the planetary ass'y.

remove the back cover part # 36, remove the top cover part # 1 (by removing the chrome ring parate # 28, the mobile disk part # 25 and six screws part # 24). This done, remove the system parat # 38 to release the Pevel Pinion Center Gear part # 15 and remove the damaged part and put the new part. The install the removed parts in reverse order as they withdrew.

Place Pin in hole where it was missing then gently tap pin into place
Run a test and all is good ??
make sure to use a drift pin set
Tom

This is the tightening screw that holds the attachments into the motor unit of the mixer. Found your web site and reordered 2 replacement pieces (in case one breaks!). Very EZ and user friendly. Thank you!

Unplugged mixer. Removed screw holding cover on. Removed end seal. Inspected repair area for furhter damage. Installed new end seal and cover.

no instructions necessary

Got the right parts, very quick delivery, will use again.

I removed the pin from the outside shaft,then removed all screw around the body of the mixer,then removed the top case out,took 3 screws out from the the gear assembly case......punched the pin out of worm gear then release the little shaft out from the case,replaced a new one....then starting go backward till completely all assembled don't forget lube grease to all gears and test run good very smooth.........it's ok

Repairing/replacing worm-gear (FSP part# W10112253) for a KitchenAid Stand Mixer model number K5SS. First: I am writing this story because all the videos or repair articles I’ve viewed are either misleading or incorrect in that they do not include older K5SS models. 1. These older models from the mid 1960’s or even earlier have four very large #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws holding the mixer base to the motor assembly and NOT four small machine screws (one with a lock-washer) as seen on other repair videos. In addition, the stand is composed of two separate pieces with the bottom half being held together with another four identical #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws. The upper four holding the stand to the motor housing (I used a manual impact driver to loosen the very stubborn, #4 Phillips screws) must be removed so as to access the four smaller Phillips machine screws (no lock-washers found here, best buy at least four #10, split, before reassembly) 2. Lastly, you will need two pin punches however the recommended smaller 3/32 inch is still too large to remove the pin in the tower assembly. You will need one size smaller or a #4 pin punch instead. These older Kitchen Aid mixers were built with very tight tolerances. Please be patient and take your time removing the pins. Good Luck……. Jim

I did some research and evaluated a modern day Kitchen Aid Mixer. Looked a the wire diagram and found out what items I needed. Ordered them from Partselect. Overall Mixer is updated and running. I made up some cookie dough with it. The Project took a few evenings due to rewiring the coils on the motor/armature and modifying the rear bearing bracket to hold the Phase control board (not OEM on 70's mixers). Then put it back together and adjusted the speed control.

Replaced the speed control plate and phase control board and works well. Pay attention to speed control board spring and adjustment lever when reassembling.

I followed the instructional video linked to my email order confirmation. Partselect provided one of the best how-to videos I've ever seen. With the right tools, a little patience and the video, I had an outstanding repair experience.

Fairly easy if you have done it once before.

disassembled replaced part reassembled now works well