22305 (1988) Kenmore Miscellaneous - Instructions

The video on your website showed me how to take out 1 screw, cut the existing wires and strip the ends. The kit came with 2 porcelan wire nuts to re-connect the wires and it was done. Less than 10 minutes. It saved me $100.00 to get it repaired.I bought 2 in case I need another one in the future.They only cost $11.00 each. Awesome website.

Remove heat coils, take body of coil inserts out, remove screws from body, cut old receptacle out, tie new recptacle wires to the old piece of left over wires using wire nuts, and reassemble body, insert heating coils and test.

I switched the circuit breaker off at the electrical panel, removed the burner switch assembly (two screws) from the cook top. The burner switches are held in place by a single nut over the control stem. I unscrewed the nut from the failed switch, disconnected the four electrical leads (one by one) from the old switch and connected them in the same position on the new switch and replaced the nut. The clips on the electrical leads were oxidized/tarnished so I cleaned them with emery cloth to assure good contact with the posts on the switch. Replaced the burner switch assembly in the cook top, energized the circuit and the burner works perfectly again.

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Read privious fixes. Didn't know which control was bad but ordered two new ones. Marked locations of switch contacts and wire colors. Removed old controls. Installed new replacements and everything works fine. Thanks.

used drill to remove old screw

I purchased a replacement. I unplugged the cooktop. Unscrewed the little instrument panel and pulled it out. Turning over the panel, I noted the wires to the switch and photographed them in case I need to check them later. I pulled them off of the old, broken switch and put them onto the new switch, one at a time so that I couldn't get them messed up. Once all of the wires were switched, I removed the old switch and put on the new one. I then plugged in the model and tested the switch. It worked perfectly! IMPORTANT: I then tried to slide the panel back into the cooktop but forgot to unplug it first. This was a huge mistake, causing a nasty flash of electricity and smell. I unplugged the cooktop, put the panel back in, and replugged the cooktop. It worked, fortunately. Moral: ALWAYS unplug the damned cooktop when working on it!

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

Turn off the power!!! Remove two screws from back of switch section and pull toward you. That was the tricky part; it wasn't obvious to me how to remove the section. Then simply revmove the witres from the old switch one by one and put them on the new part. Close it up and you're good to go.

The repair was easy. First, I turned off cooktop circuit breaker. Then, removed the burner switch panel and the nut securing burner switch to panel. Disconnected the wiring and refit with new switch. Install switch panel and turned power back on. Now it's time to cook some dinner. Let's eat. :)

removed old motor from cooktop & motor housing & replaced w/ new motor & parts to install same. parts needed where screws & isolators (3).All went ok

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.