SMH7175CC Maytag Microwave - Instructions

Why a tenant would remove and discard the grease filters without replacing them is beyond me! But, I removed the filters from the package and slid them into place. Two minutes tops. I would like to add that I ordered these on Thursday afternoon, and I had them on Saturday; awesome customer service!

I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!

First I read through the customer comments, reviews, questions, etc. at Parts Select, which is always a good bet. Then I put "samsung microwave door switch replacement" into youtube and watched some videos. They don't even have to be for Samsung. From what I can tell, many of the appliance companies use the same design and the same junk parts, so watching a GE video is almost the same for example. Watch some videos to familiarize yourself with the steps. There are maybe six to disassemble and install the new part. I replaced all three switches. They are not expensive and to replace 3 is only 5% more work than to replace just one; you have to take the microwave apart in either case. UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE FROM THE WALL. Start taking it apart. I use my phone to take a picture of any thing I remove, unscrew or disconnect, especially wires, BEFORE I disconnect them. Thee pictures serve as a reference when I go to reconnect and reassemble. If I am uncertain then I check the picture. Good luck!

I replaced all 3 door switches. Once you remove the top vent then remove the panel. Then remove the two screws holding the door switches in place and pop them out and replace them. It was tricky getting around all the wires but eventually was able to get around them. Took less than 20 mins to do and was less than $40 to fix. Much better than having to replace our over the stove microwave.

Unplugged the unit. With a screwdriver removed two screws on the top plastic vent. This exposed the screw holding the control panel. Removed that screw to access the switches. Removed the visible connected wiring from the switches. Grabbed each switch with pliers to gentle pull them from their holders. Inserted new switches and reconnected wiring, ensuring the correct orientation of switches in their holders.
Recommend replace all three switches.

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

Other tools that are usefull long needle nose pliers, long thin blade screw driver and small magnetic flashlight. Place the microwave on a work bench and remove the case it cover 3 sides. Place the microwave on a chair so it can stand with the controls up. You are replacing the lower door microswitch. The switch is located behind the control panel in the lower part of the area. The switch is several inches inside this area and your hands will not fit. Take care when moving wires and a couple of sensors. Use the thin blade screwdriver to release a tab holding the switch in place. Do not break this tab. Take the needle nose pliers and remove the switch. Put the wires on the new switch, open the door a short distance so a door lever moves enough to put the microswitch back into the bracket.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

Removed the turntable and changed the coupler. Replaced the turntable.

Pulled out the old and inserted the new/replacement.

Replaced with new motor from Parts Select. Part was a correct replacement for the old one. perfect fit. Works like it did when it was new. I will recommend Parts Select to anyone. Thank you very much. I would definitely use your company again in the future. I saved $30 by not using parts from GE.

Not so sure this would qualify as "instructions", but I only needed a screwdriver because the "D" rings of the old vent filters broke off and I had to pry to old ones out. Keep in mind, I am mechanically disadvantaged and can barely change an A/C filter ... that being said, all I did for this order was input my Model number and PartSelect found the correct replacement part. I receive the parts super quick (faster than the other 2 purchases I did that day). The only bummer was the packaging ... super huge box for small tiny parts. Otherwise, I now know where to go for replacement parts. This project should be a "no-brainer" for most DYI's, so getting the right parts with just a model number was lifesaving for me :0)

Pulled off the old coupler (stem was broken), pushed on the new one... Voila!

took THERMOSTAT;NT-101NA,250 out and put THERMOSTAT;NT-101NA,250 in so easy got the part in LESS 19 HRS