RVM1325WW004 Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

Had to take the MW off the wall, remove the cover, and find the magnetron. Issue was the HV-capacitor. Had to remove the diode and capacitor to discharge the capacitor safely. Crackle-Bang! Then put it back before toying with the HV-transformer in order to get the magnetron out. Took a little under two hours to get it back on the wall and a lot of cajones when monkeying around the chassis removing the capacitor. Not a job for most everyone as this was a potentially high-shock repair due to the voltage and micro-farads held in that capacitor. Hardest part was getting the magnetron to drop out past the HV-transformer. Also, the thermostat had to be removed from the magnetron and re attached to the new one. Fiddly delicate job, not for the clumsy or faint of heart.

Installation of the damper was effortless but removing the microwave, cutting holes vertically through an overhead cabinet then installing ducting with a ninety degree bend, through another cabinet, and then through outside wall consumed most of the time and effort.Your service, packaging, and timely (next day!) were extremely helpful.

I tried to replace a light bulb over the cook stove without turning off the power supply. The light socket had deteriorated and the bulb base shorted out on the microwave frame. I ordered new sockets and bulbs. Replacing them was s simple matter with the power off. However, there was still no lights working with the power on. I pulled to cover off on top of the microwave (two screws) and checked the fuse. Continuity test showed it to be ok. Next I pulled the cover off the control panel and pulled out the mother board. On the back side I noticed two burnt pins. I applied solder with a solder gun to replace the burnt off solder. I put it all back together and it works fine.

I thought I could just unscrew the bulbs in the SpacemakerXL Microwave Oven. The bulbs melted into the bulb socket so every attempt to unscrew the bulb with pliers just broke the socket. So I took out the few screws holding up the bottom panel(with the bulbs and filters). I unplugged the electrical connection and took out the sockets but I used PAM Cooking oil on the electrical connections plugging into the sockets to avoid pulling the wire holders from the connection. Replacing both bulbs and the sockets at the same time makes sense since the heat from the stove melts the bulbs in the socket.

Found blowup drawings inside unit, which helped identify what I had to remove. Had neighbor assist in lifting unit from wall mount, unit slides easily from rails once top bolts are removed. Pay attention to where all the screws go as you remove them, some inside assemblies will have to be removed or loosened. A good guideline to go by is all black screws hold internal assemblies, the bronze screws go in the back side and the chrome screws go on top, sides, and front of the unit. I was able to lift unit back on rails without any assistance.

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

Because the microwave is old and the bulbs, I believe, had never been changed I carefully tried to unscrew the bulb. However, when I went to unscrew the bulbs the end of the bulb broke off and remained in the socket. I used a few different tools then remembered that sometimes a raw potatoe can be used to unscrew the remainder of the bulb, but to no avail. Finally had to unscrew the whole underside of the microwave to remove the broken bulb. May I suggest that you have the socket face away from the wall to screw in the bulb instead of the socket pointing toward the wall. You need to know yoga just to manuver the bulb into the socket.

Removed 5 screws from the bottom of the over the range microwave to expose the light sockets. Removed the 1 screw holding the socket, disconnected the wires. Attached the wires to the new socket, Put in the bulb, reattached it with the screw. Repeated on the other light... It took about 20 minutes and now the lights work just like they should :)

The order was easy and promptly received. I lowered the cover by removing retainer screws underneath. Simply lowered it and removed the broken glass and replaced it. The bulb was broken and the base of it was stuck in the socket. I didn't bother to remove it because the socket was brittle. I disconnected the socket by unplugging the wires, removing the retainer screws,and removing it. I replaced it with the new one. Screwed in the bulb. I replaced the cover and it was done. Ps: I used an Hitachi cordless screwdriver, which greatly helped when doing this alone.

change fuse still didnt work i saw enougher fuse put the new fuse in there old fuse back and it didnt work . it was easy to do but it didnt fix proplem lihgt bulb didnt change coudnt figure how to find were it went

I replaced the cover just fine but i think a sensor went bad

Changing 2 lightbulbs is NOT ROCKRT SCIENCE. With a screw-driver, remove the under MW light lens, unscrew the 2 burned out light bulbs, and replace with 2 new quality light bulbs. Test out that both are lite and working as they should, replace the lens and you are done, Until you find out one of the new (made in Chins) light bulbs is burned out after about 6 hours of being lite, call the parts phonr number and order a new replace bulb.

Took the light socket out and replaced it.

Unplug appliance, Staring from the rear sides, remove the four side screws. Remove the left and right front screws and finally the front center screw. The bottom panel hinges down toward the rear . Unplug the input wires from the sockets . Unscrew the two retainer screws (one each) and pull the sockets out of the panel. Note that the retainer screws are shouldered. The shoulder fits through the elongated slot in the socket. Screw the bulb into the socket and insert through the mounting hole. Insert and tighten the mounting screws. Note that the sockets may appear to be a bit loose. That's OK because of the shouldered screw. Don't over tighten or you risk stripping the threads of the panel. Plug in the input sockets and install the panel screws in the reverse order of removal. Plug the appliance in and test the bulbs.

Followed suggestion by previous poster to remove bottom panel...facilitated process well