SCA1000DWW03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

The tray came within 5 days and I simply took it out of its well-packaged box and slipped it into my microwave. It is working just like new. I can't thank you all for being so punctual and reliable. better than having to buy a brand new microwave.

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet

Removed one phillips head screw, removed old cover, then replaced new cover and screw. Very easy and Parts Select made it happen. Will deal with them again. Thanks Parts Select.

Removed one Phillips screw, installed new wave guide cover, secured with phillips screw. Done

Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

This is a simple task. Removed the choke cover using a putty knife or small flat screw driver. Putty knife works best. Slide putty knife under the plastic choke cover to lift up over clips all around the door. There are 3 on top and Bottom and 2 on each side. Be very careful or you will break the catch clips that hold the choke cover in place. Lift the door latch up all the way and push towards the outside of the door, then pull the top or bottom out then the rest of it. Unhook the spring end from the door. Attach the new spring to the hook on the door and then to the door latch. Extend it up all the way so the 2 hook parts of the door latch can go back into their slots. Unlike some others said, the microwave door does not need to be removed. If you have someone to hold the door still, that's good enough. I did it by myself with no problem.

after reading online about others experiences sparce
info I ordered a door handle. after taking off the inner door frame (I was warned to be careful so as not to break off the clips that attach it) and breaking off most of the clips I had access to the top screw of the handle but not the bottom screw which is behind the center piece of the door. Typically you should be able to access this by prying open this center piece which is held together by some white clamps much more sturdy than the back ones on the first piece removed. Well just my luck the male tip of the bottom part of the handle was broken off within the frame of the door, and I could not access the screw the normal way, I had to get creative I have owned a dremel for many years not appreciating there utility until I began a car restoration project. Long story short I had to drill out the plastic male tip to remove the screw and the handle.After this a good hour of patiently drilling, I cleaned up the mess and ordered another inner part so that all my effort would not appear half-a__. That was friday the part arrived monday I cleaned things up nicely and things went together rather easily. Don't forget all the screws in your haste to put it all back together. Personally I think even if you broke most of the black clamps off the door would come together without any problems, I ordered another because I wanted this expensive dinosaur to be good as new. If you have patience and can do without your microwave for a couple of days if need be go for it. Or just get a new door for under $200. Just don't ask me how to install it!

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

I read your instructions sent with the new latch. Looked at a couple videos online and it was VERY easy to change the part. Thanks so much?

The handle could only be removed from inside the door of the microwave. The manufacturer placed a cover over the area which had to be removed. It looked like they never had intended for this to be removed as little black plastic pieces broke off when the cover was snapped off with the screwdriver. Next, there was more window-frame parts underneath making it impossible to reach the screws to remove the old broken handle and screw on the new one. That had to be pried away as well. Again, it looks like the manufacturer NEVER intended for these frames to come off. The job eventually got done with some minor cracks and small broken pieces to these frames but all is put back together with cussing and fuming from my husband.

Watched Utube instructions on how to do it to it and just did it.

Placed the new tray into the oven.

Another company said the new plate would arrive in mid-March, this company seemed to be faster so ordered the tray here, and it came in less than a week. I put the turn button back in the center hole, set the wheeled ring on the bottom of the oven, fitted the new glass tray onto the turn button.