JE1460BF002 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

get microwave out of cabinet. Took two people because it was very heavy. Used special hex drive socekt because of dimple in the female nut.

unplug oven from power
remove glass turntable
remove cabinet housing
remove burnt out bulb
order correct part
reinstall new bulb
reattach cabinet housing
install glass turntable
plug into power outlet
confirm light bulb on

Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge.
With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Removed outer cover, Cash with for Phillips screws as I recall, Then remove six or eight safety screws with Phillips special bit. Pulled bulb, cover back, removed, and replace bulb, back together all set

I used a phillips screw driver and a special type bit to undo the screws from the cabinet and found the light bulb and took the old one out and put the new one in and put it back together.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

I assumed light was burned out and got a replacement bulb.
Removed back and side screws with slight difficulity.
Was not able to remove cover. The top front would not loosen. I tried every trick in my 80 year repertoire. I gave up and put it back together.
I emailed PartSelect last week explaining the problem. So far no reply.
I am sure I have the right model # and others seem to have little trouble removing the cover.
I paid $85 + tax for the oven and it has worked well for about 8(?) years.
From what I read here, I figured I could handle the bulb replacement.
I'm just out the cost of the bulb and shipping and the oven still works. It would have been nice to have the light work again but we will just wait until it quits working and buy another inexpensive unit.

Remove tray and rotating ring assembly. Turn the microwave onto the back. Locate the center plate and cut it loose with the side cutters. (Note: there are retaining slots on the opposite side) these slots hold the cover plate in place when reattaching. Use a magnetic phillips head screw driver so you don't drop the cover retaining screw. After cutting loose the cover, unplug the wires from the motor. (Note placement for correct reattachment). Remove 2 screws and remove old motor. Replace motor. Replace the screws and reattach the wires. Replace the cover (rotate so the prongs fit into the slots) tighten screw; you're done!!! I ordered the rotating ring, but I don't need it. Now I have an extra.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.