JVM1740DP2WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

remove cover, unplug secondary door switch (top switch)
remove switch from holder, install new switch, plug in wires, replace cover, very easy. door switches are a common problem
with microwave ovens.

Removed Cover Plate,
Removed back cover
Bulb disintegrated removed base with pliers
Screwed in new lamp
Replaced cover
Done

My son=law did repair because I am elderly and it was necesary to remove the bottom plate of the microwave which I was unable to do. The microwave was installed in 1987 and I believe this was the first time to replace the bulbs. When my son removed them the bulb was diintergrated. That's how old they were. Once he was able to remove the underneath plate the repair was easy except for removing the old bulbs. I think that I could have done it myself but he was available and I am sure it was done much better. All in all the parts)bulbs) were correct and everything is workiin fine. This is a good place to order replacement parts. In fact I am going to order a new charcoal filter. He took the label off the old one and I am ordering the replacement. After all 1987 may have been a good year, but time for a new one. Mary

I asked a handyman at the local fitness center about repairing it and he refered me to your website where I found an exploaded drawing showing the parts I needed and how to get to them. It was great and very easy.

Just unscrewed the screw holding the lens, unscrewed the bulb and put the new bulb in. Simple

Since the job required replacing both the bulbs and sockets the unit was dropped from the wall. Used a towel and plywood to protect the range under the unit. Then these steps: Unplugged the power cable and placed a support board under the unit while removing three bolts from overhead cabinet. Next, removed support board and with a helper rotated the unit down and lifted it out of the rear wall mounting panel. Then turned the unit upside down, removed the bottom plate and unplugged the feed wires and two wires to each of the sockets. Next the single screws holding the sockets were removed and the sockets extracted from the mounting shells and new units were installed. When remounting the unit it was necessary to start all three bolts from the upper cabinet just a few turns and then tighten the center bolt completely first.

Unscrewed the lens, it hinged down, then I could remove the frame. Pulled old bulb out and replaced with new one. Replaced broken glass in frame. Reset hinge into the holes and swung it up into place. Screwed it in.

Very easy!

changed the bulb

With many thanks to those who posted their experience and advice replacing the bulb, I was able to remove 5 of the 6 screws holding the underside panel and remove the socket which contained the broken off base of the bulb and extract it with needle-nose pliers. I had broken off the glass portion of the bulb trying to unscrew it due to the awkward contortion of my wrist-hand-fingers trying to grip the bulb inside the tight recess the bulb is mounted in. After concluding that I needed more information, I did a web search for 'Hotpoint RVM1435' and found helpful advice at partselect.com telling me to drop the bottom panel. Good call! Thanks everyone!

so easy, but how do i turn light off?

Part recieved next day. thanks so much

All one has to do is use a screw driver to remove the screws, one per lens.
Then lower the lens bracket, bend the 4 tabs holding the
lens, remove and replace the lens and screw the brackets back in place.

Less than 10 minuits.

removed the lens cover with one screw and replaced bulb

remove cover-unplug wires from secondary switch-remove switch-snap in new switch-plug in wires-replace cover-works great. very easy to do.

Installation of the damper was effortless but removing the microwave, cutting holes vertically through an overhead cabinet then installing ducting with a ninety degree bend, through another cabinet, and then through outside wall consumed most of the time and effort.Your service, packaging, and timely (next day!) were extremely helpful.

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.