JVM1730DP2BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

undid plate exposing bulbs. Bulbs were blown to the extent that I could not see the size or wattage. Went to website, got the data ... including how to find the model and serial number plate, entered the info, looked at the exploded drawing, ordered 2 new bulbs and 3 days later they showed up at our door FedEX.

Simply unscrew the bottom panel of the microwave device (it swings downward when opening - there are hinges on the back to protect it from falling down). Remove the old light socket (which is modular and is screwed in place)from the connectors and then replace it with the new light socket. That's it

Getting the old bulb out of the socket was not an easy job as the factory seals the base of the bulb to the socket and for what reason I do not know. The seal has to be broken away to remove the bulb. I broke the seal with a knife and then proceeded to unscrew the bulb. The bulb at that point shattered in my hand and I was left with just the base of the bulb stuck in the socket. it took much effort to be able to work loose the base with a needle nose pliers and much sweat. The installation however went very smooth and Part Select did a fine job of sending me the right part in a very short period of time. They are a great source for any appliance part needed.

damper plate was a snap-in part. rotated fan discharge to top of microwave. installed ducting to discharge food odors outside.

Removed 5 phillip screws from bottom plate of microwave oven to lower the plate and gain access to the socket. Then, removed screw(s) attaching socket to the oven. Installed socket, and secured the bottom plate of the oven with screws removed previously.

thank you very much.

Took out five screws on microwave bottom, removed the two screws in the socket and unplugged the light socket. Plug in new socket, screw in place with 2 screws. Lock in microwave bottom,and screw in 5 screws. Replace bulbs. Be sure and either unplug microwave or switch off at electric service box, before starting. Of course, hubby did all the work, but I supervised.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

As suggested, I placed a towel over the stove. Only had 3 main screws to remove from bottom of microwave. Dropped the bottom and changed the sockets and light bulbs. After replacing the bottom tray, I put the new glass light lens in. The clips on glass holder bent back like a photo frame-really easy. Turned on the lights and was done.

replace socket

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Followed suggestion by previous poster to remove bottom panel...facilitated process well

Very easy to replace the light socket. Unscrew screws under microwave to lower the base. remove screw at rear of light socket. Unplug power to socket. Plug wire into new socket. Replace new socket into base and replace serew. Hold base plate up to microwave and replace all screws. Do yourself a favor, if replacing one of the lights, go ahead and do both. Shipping cost is the same for 1 or 2 bulb sockets.

After discovering Parts Select website and reading the experiences and installation instructions of others with similar experiences, it gave me the confidence to give it a try. I order the parts, and in a few days, they arrived. I did the following, as read from others: 1. unscrewed the 5 screws on bottom panel of microwave. 2. Had wife hold panel while I unscrewed the 1 screw holding the lamp socket 3. Pulled lamp socket out of hole 4. Used needle nose pliers to pull wiring from old lamp socket 5. plugged the two wires into new lamp socket 6. removed old bulbs (which would have been a nightmare to do by just dropping down the bulb cover - bulb had been factored glued to lamp socket and even after I removed the glue, the bulb still broke when trying to remove the bulb - had to use needle nose pliers to unscrew the base of the broken bulb) 7. placed lamp socket with new bulb back into its slot and screwed the one screw holding the lamp socket back 8. screwed back in the 5 screws that held the bottom panel.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.