JVM1730DP2BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Installation of the damper was effortless but removing the microwave, cutting holes vertically through an overhead cabinet then installing ducting with a ninety degree bend, through another cabinet, and then through outside wall consumed most of the time and effort.Your service, packaging, and timely (next day!) were extremely helpful.

Replaced light socket and bulb. Real easy repair.

Fist I removed the 5 screws under the microwave. Then I dropped the panel and accessed the socket. I removed the socket by removing the one screw and disconnecting the wires. Replaced the wires on the new socket, installed the new bulb and reattached with the screw. replaced the panel with the 5 screws and I was done. Easy

Simple install. Thanks for your prompt response to my order and interest.

it was a simple screw in on both ends. no soldering

easily replaced. parts arrived quicker than suggested. thanks

lower hood; support hood with spice rack;angle just right; unscrew light socket; remove wiring harness; replace; connect wiring harness;

Very simple disconnect light socket unit from snap in power supply replace socket with bulb screwed in reattach & back in business. Your service in supplying needed parts was par excellence. Thanks again

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

I tried to replace a light bulb over the cook stove without turning off the power supply. The light socket had deteriorated and the bulb base shorted out on the microwave frame. I ordered new sockets and bulbs. Replacing them was s simple matter with the power off. However, there was still no lights working with the power on. I pulled to cover off on top of the microwave (two screws) and checked the fuse. Continuity test showed it to be ok. Next I pulled the cover off the control panel and pulled out the mother board. On the back side I noticed two burnt pins. I applied solder with a solder gun to replace the burnt off solder. I put it all back together and it works fine.

I thought I could just unscrew the bulbs in the SpacemakerXL Microwave Oven. The bulbs melted into the bulb socket so every attempt to unscrew the bulb with pliers just broke the socket. So I took out the few screws holding up the bottom panel(with the bulbs and filters). I unplugged the electrical connection and took out the sockets but I used PAM Cooking oil on the electrical connections plugging into the sockets to avoid pulling the wire holders from the connection. Replacing both bulbs and the sockets at the same time makes sense since the heat from the stove melts the bulbs in the socket.

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver and removed the screw that retains the lens frame around the broken lens. I also did the same to the opposite side (whose lens was fine but the bulb had been burned out for some time). With my fingers I pryed up the frame clips that secure the lens in place, removed the pieces of the broken lens, and replace the lens with one of the new lenses I had ordered. Although the bulb on this side was still burning, I replaced it with one of the two I ordered anyway. When I removed the bulb that was burned out, the glass separated from the bulb's base. However, I simply put on a set of tight fitting leather gloves and used my ring finger to apply pressure inside the base and it soon began to twist and then came out. This takes a little manual dexterity, but is very doable. If it were too tight, you could take a large "easy-out" tool (like the one to fit a 3/8" - 1/2" hole) and it would remove the broken base in short order. I had also ordered a second lens, but the lens on the burned side was simply dirty, so I cleaned it, put it back in place and saved the new one for a rainy day. By the way, BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THE LIGHTS ARE SWITCHED TO THE "OFF" POSITION BEFORE DOING ANY OF THE ABOVE. Also take care to clean the glass on the bulbs with denatured alcohol and handle them with clean cloth gloves or a tissue so as not to allow any oils to be on the surface when they are switched on. Body oil will immediately create a hot spot which will shorten the life of the bulb by at least 50% if not more.

removed access panal, found soft switch as discribed on your web site. removed and replaced.