PVM1790DR1WW General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove 1 screw, remove light bulb and replace and replace screw. No problem.

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Replaced all 3 switches and Holder for all 3 switches. All is working great now.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

When removing a non-working door switch, you will see a hooked piece of plastic on the holder locker that looks like a latch. If you try to pull it back in order to either remove the bad switch or install a good one, it will likely break. Instead, you need to pivot the switch (It pivots on a little post which is fitted into a hole at the corner of the switch) out of position so that it is not held back by the 'latch'. Then lift the switch out. If you have to use lots of force anything, you're doing something wrong. Reverse all this when installing the new switch.

the problem was the mounting bracket that was installed when the house was built ,was not the bracket that came with the microwave. It was used to step the microwave out 3" in front of the other cabinets for the style that they were using then. so when I was installing the new cabinets I didn't want that style, so I ordered the original mounting bracket. It was a perfect fit and the install went great

The Halogen Light Bulbs for lighting the area below the microwave seemed to be burned out. I order new bulbs but by the time they arrived the old bulbs appeared to be working again. Not sure why this happened but I have new bulbs if they become burned out for good at some point.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

I did some research and found the part through this website. Very easy to change the heater sheath, just took long to take everything apart. Looked at some diagrams to see exactly where the part was.

Checked all sensors with a multi-meter, found the thermostat to be the problem, no continuity.

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.

Our Microwave’s Halogen Light Bulb burned out.

We looked in our manual and were able to take the cover off to get to the bulb, but we were unable to unscrew the builb and the bulb in the manual did not match the size of the one you offer (size and part number were different)

We called 1-888-738-4871.

Gentleman who answered was very knowledgeable: answered all of our questions (PULL THE OLD BULB OUT) and assisted us by ordering replacement bulbs.

We (more importantly my wife) were very pleased with the result.

Ridiculously easy, unscrew, and change bulbs. Having the correct bulbs made all the difference, I did not have to waste time looking for the correct one.