JVM1630CD004 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Did a Google search to find a video and instructions on how to access the door handle screws. Pried off the inner door, repeatedly dropped screws, swore a little, eventually got everything installed

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.

Pulled out broken one with fingers, put on new one with fingers, it did not have anything preventing it from just slipping on. Didn't need to take anything apart to install me part.

I simply pulled the old coupler off the moter shaft after removing glass turntable plate. The coupler lifted right out since it was fractured. Luckily all peices came out attached. Typically you would need to remove the bottom access panel on the microwave and remove the turntable motor to install the new coupler. However you can simply snap off the extra plastic piece that is molded to the coupler to allow for an easy push down onto the shaft from the inside of the microwave cooking area where the coupler fits onto the moter. Piece of cake. I don't believe there is any danger in shortcutting this because the weight of the glass plate will hold it in place.

I open the door to access the back panel. I used a screwdriver(flat) to unsnap the inside door frame cover. Next, the removal of 2 philips screws near the door spring locks to allow the front frame removal. Unsnap the front frame from the door and remove. Next, remove 2 philips screws and remove the handle. Install the handle to the new frame and in reverse order, reinstall the new outer frame. Simple.

Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.

Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.

removed the broken coupler and replaced it with the new one.

I followed the instructions provided by others on-line who had done a similar repair. I removed a handful of screws, disconnected the wires from the old drive motor and connected them to the new drive, replaced the screws that held the drive motor in place, and those that held the bottom housing in place, and I was done. Literally took less than 10 minutes. If I had known earlier how easy it was, the microwave would have been fixed much earlier.

First, potatoe burned up in microwave. Microwave
was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).