SCA1000HCC03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

took glass cover off being an electrician and saw lamp or bulb was burned out. googled your site and with model number.went on partselect found lamp,orderd it.2 days later lamp arived installed lamp. So easy no running around or making several calls

Screw out-old bulb out- new bulb in- screw back in!!!!!

I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

unscrew one screw and remove bulb and insert new bulb and replace lense with one screw-

as easy as it gets-

Repair was simple; only a phillips head screw driver was required to remove the access plate.

Part Select delivered the replacement lamps within 3 days from the date I placed the order - great service.

Unscrew (one screw) and take off the cover of the surface light under the microwave (the light over the stove). Firmly pull out the old light bulbs. Align the two prongs of the new bulbs into the socket and firmly push into the recepticle. Replace the cover and screw.

My daughter hand installed bulbs without a problem, took a minute and used a phillips to reinstall the cover. I shopped on-line because I wasted two hours between Lowe's and Home Depot trying to get the right bulb. I did think your postage was crazy high, otherwise glad to get the right bulbs to solve the problem.

Found a service manual on-line, and read some blogs that indicted the Thermal Cut Out devices that are basically thermal fuses. I removed the device from over the range, which turned out to be not 100% necessary, but made the repair much easier. Found that the Cavity TCO was certainly burnt, and tested bad with an Ohmmeter. The Hood TCO tested open, so I assumed that device was bad, which turned out not to be true. The TCO's are one shot, so I found PartSelect in a search engine, and entered my product model number. The parts were all clearly identified, so ordering was easy. Replaced the parts, bench tested the repair and re-installed the device. Way cheaper than a service call and I also replaced the long burnt out vanity light. This bulb burnt out in less than a year, but a serviceman had told me that the entire device had to be dis-assembled to replace the part, which is not true. This part can be replaced without removing the oven from the over-the-range mount, as can the three TCO's in the oven.

I could not for the life of me figure out how to get into the light housing so I could replace the bulb, nor did I have any idea which bulb to buy. The manual for this model descibes how to replace the underside lighting but they seem to have left out instructions about the interior. I watched the short "how-to" video on this site, bought the bulb that was described and replaced the bulb in five minutes without any issues.

This is the tray the glass cooking tray rest on and rotates the glass during cooking. The metal tray was installed upside down. The rotating glass tray was not properly installed. The oven was at a very high temp. and the weight of the utensil on the glass was not supported correctly. Result, big " pop " and broken glass tray. Note this is the second glass repaced. The first one dropped while removing it from the oven. It stuck to the bottom of the cooking dish and then fell to the floor. Pop, big breakage. Maybe you can learn from my mistakes.

I'm writing because I have never in my life had such an easy time finding a part, ordering it, and receiving it! Your service is truly unbelievable. I still don't believe it and I experienced it. Nothing went wrong and it could not have been easier. Please don't go away.

Opened the cover. Removed burned out bulbs. Ordered replacements which arrived fairly quickly. Forgot to turn off power to unit (didn't matter in the end!). Using the bubble wrap the new bulbs came in, I inserted the bulbs one by one into their respective sockets. Not really tricky but the surface light is in the back of the microwave so I had to lean over the stove to get all the way back. Once in the bulbs worked fine. Closed the cover. All back to normal.

First unplugged the microwave, took top grill off, took control panel off, took wires off and used color coded tape to make sure they went back in right places, took fuse out and replaced it and put every thing back and it all worked fine and to top it off my wife did it all. So it was pretty easy.

Our GE Profile Advantium 120 Series Over-the-Range Microwave stopped working. We called GE Service. The first available appointment was two weeks after our call. The technician charged $99, gave us a form stating that the Magnetron and Diode Cable as defective and quoting an additional price of $362 to furnish and install these parts. He said that it would be another two weeks before he could do the work. Instead I ordered the parts from you and had them within two days. The parts you furnished were identical to the original parts in our unit. They arrived within two days. I installed the parts without removing the microwave from the wall. The most difficult part was inserting the magnetron mounting screws into openings in the rather tight space available. I was able to do this by using plastic pacaging tape to hold the screws onto the end of a short Phillip screw, Prior to iserting each screw I pushed it through the sticky side of a piece of packaging tape. I then folded the sticky surface over the shank of the screw. Once a screw was seated, but before it was fully tightened, I used needle nose pliers to pull off the tape. The unit now functions perfectly.