JVM3160RFSS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

got a screwdriver and opened the glass door over the light bulb - changed the bulb and put the glass door back with the screwdriver.

Had to remove microwave from the wall. Then disassemble entire top assembly to get to the part. Easy enough to replace after that. Then just reassemble and reinstall. About 2hrs. total

Remove microwave and set on flat surface. Remove all screws on top. Remove all screws around back edge holding top on. Finally remove the screws on botton holding top on and remove top. On left side on top, remove 6 screws holding black channel in place. Also remove 3 screws holding metal top in place. Now lift black channel up and unplug 2 wires on cutout. Replace cutout and reinstall everything in reverse order. Worst part is taking microwave down and reinstalling.

1. Unplug unit
2. Open door, remove two screws above the top trim piece, slide and remove trim.
3. Remove screw behind control board and top left corner, then release from position.
3b. Unplug all wire terminations and set control panel aside.
4. Remove two screws securing latch board, lift and rotate board out of position, remove three micro switches, xfer monitor switch actuator from lower pin in old board and insert in new. Install new door switches and reverse procedure to complete repair.

Note 1. Take care to located new latch board so holding tabs line up, pass through frame, and openings for door tangs line up with openings in frame before securing with screws.

Note 2. A long magnetic screwdriver is helpful.

Open the front cover by pushing it at the top (where it says “Push”), lifting up and pushing back on top edge of the old filter. Pull it out. Installing the new one is basically just the reverse of those steps! That simple.

Old filter did seem to be a little thicker (filter material), but the new one was the exact same dimensions, so it went in properly. Wish the filter material was white, so you knew just how dirty it was actually getting. But... :-D

The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.

This is the second time replacing this fuse, last time was exactly one year ago. The first time I replaced it, I removed the oven from the wall & disassembled a number of things to reach the culprit. This time I left the oven mounted & was able to access the 2 grille mounting screws on the top of the grille & remove it. Next comes the black plastic air deflector held by two screws & is mounted in front & on the right, it is shown on the parts list just above part #1434. After removing it, remove the two silver cover screws in the front, this cover also doesn't have a part # but is shown to the right of part #1410. At this point you can lift this cover enough to access the fuse which is on the left & held in place by one tiny screw through the clamp at the top, (careful not to drop it when removing). PS: Don't forget to cut the power to the microwave before starting!

This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.

There are videos on YouTube on how to do this but there are a couple of things I’m going to recommend. Color code your plugs when you take the main control panel off, be patient when removing the screws on the thermal fuse use a 45 degree screwdriver but replace the screws with a small hex head self tapper screw for next time. The difference between these two lookalike fuses is that one is for the fan and the other one is the thermal there’s a price difference and volts so read the back of the bad fuse. These guys are great man and thank you for helping me out.

Turned power off, removed screws from outer cover, opened door, slide cover off, removed screws, lifted panel open, removed electrical connections, then removed keypad panel. Removed screws for fan cover then removed cover. Saw blown fuse replaced fuse also used ohm meter to measure resistance of the thermostat it was shorted. removed screw holding it in place removed 2 connectors took out thermostat inserted new thermostat screwed in place put connectors back on. Put fan cover on put screws in, put key panel on reconnect all connections to key panel put screws in put cover on, screw in, turn power on.

Using some help, removed the above the range microwave. Took apart parts of the microwave to get to the magnetron. Removed existing magnetron, inserted the new magnetron. Put the microwave back together. Tested the microwave to insure the magnetron was working before reinstalling. It did heat. Then reinstalled it back above the range.

Using a screwdriver, removed the cover, pulled out the bad bulb, and easily put in the new one.

While installing a filter in my brand new never been used microwave range hood combo I snapped off the top door latch with my elbow. After a few expletives I search You Tube and found it was a simple fix. I ordered a replacement latch from this site. It arrived in three days and it took 5 minutes to fix.

Open the microwave door, push the press and release door that is located across the top of the oven. Remove and replace filter, close access door, close microwave.

My oven is installed above the counter making it a bit difficult to reach the screws closest to the wall. Instructions should note that both harnesses need to be disconnected and that there are two screws, not one holding the motor. This one issue made it frustrating since that screw is located towards the back away from your vision. This is when the flash light and a bit of contortions were required.